SOCONY, The Trace of Rockefeller in Semarang

Petroleum industry since in the late of 19th century was became a freshly new lucrative mining industry in the world. Indonesia or Netherlands East Indie  in the old days became became the fourth-largest exporters of oil after the US, the USSR, and Iran during the first half of the 20th century. As for Saudi Arabia, its oil deposits weren’t discovered till 1938 and no one knew how much they had till after the war. The Petroleum industry in Netherlands East Indie started in Pangkalan Brandan, North Sumatera in 1883. Soon its attracted another petroleum company to do the oil exploration in these Dutch colonies.  One of them, was the company of one’s of the world famous tycoon from the United States of America, SOCONY. SOCONY currently part of the Exxon-Mobile company, one's of the major petroleoum company in world.

SOCONY former headquarter in Semarang, currently occupied by
Hotel Pelangi. The numberings of the building in the area that never changed
since the colonial period, made it easy to track its location although the
name of the street indeed was completely different.

SOCONY history dates from the late 19th century as part of American John D. Rockefeller’s oil giant Standard Oil. Rockefeller, along with Maurice B. Clark and Englishman Samuel Andrews, founded Standard Oil in 1870 in Cleveland, Ohio after investing in an oil refinery in 1863. Following a trust agreement in 1882, the Standard Oil Company of New York was created, the predecessor to SOCONY-Vacuum and later the Mobil Corporation. In the next decades, the company spread its business to Europe and Asia, and employed the use of large ‘kerosene clippers’ to transport their material overseas. 1911 marked the end of the giant consortium of 34 Standard Oil companies after an antitrust suit forced Rockefeller’s conglomerate to split. Standard Oil Company of New York was now a spin-off company of the original Standard Oil, and became known as SOCONY (an acronym for its full name).

view from the terrace of the former SOCONY office in Semarang, situated in its 2nd floor and it has a great panoramic view toward the Tawang Railway Station. 

SOCONY begin to open their business in Netherlands East Indie  as its announced in De Indische Courant in February 7th 1922 as one of its vessel arrived directly from United States, carrying 1.500 boxes of petrol (old form of carrying the petrol with capacity of 20 litres each box). Soon, the service station of SOCONY spread all over Netherlands East Indie, serve the people who was in the first generation of automobile. Four year later in 1926, SOCONY already had its offices in several cities like Weltevreden (currently Jakarta Pusat areas), Semarang, Cilacap, Bandung, Surabaya and Makassar.  Their office in Semarang was still exist until today but its changed into a hotel named Hotel Pelangi in the Kota Lama, an old town areas of Semarang. The building although very modest but it has a great view toward the Tawang train station, the most artistic railway station building in Indonesia. Another interesting story about this three-story building was, once it became a silent witness of the Nelson Rockefeller visits during his trip to Netherlands East Indies in the end of 1930.     

One out of the few original part that remains in the
former SOCONY office in Semarang.

The visit of  Nelson Rockefeller itself which is the The visit this Rockefeller Jr became a hit for the newspaper in Netherlands East Indies where several newsapaper wrote an articles about this events like Bataviasch Nieuwsblad, Het nieuws van den dag voor Nederlandsch-Indië, etc. Nelson took His wife also during His trip, and started in Bali as their first destination in 27 November 1930. Then they crossing the Balinese strait into Java and visiting Tosari village for the famous Bromo Mountain. After that a stop in Surabaya and then continues to Yogyakarta, where they spent several days there. Accompanied by J.B. Emmert, the general-manager of SOCONY in Batavia, they drove a car to the north, to Semarang. The head of SOCONY in Semarang , W.F.C. Nieuwhuizen indeed busy with the reception over this honorary guest. During His visit in Semarang, the Mr and Mrs. Nelson A Rockefeller spent a night at Hotel Du Pavillon, later known as Hotel Dibya Puri.  After Semarang, they took a planes to Bandung, before then to Batavia and back to the United States of America.

Margoredjo Koffie and The Struggle Against Europeans Hegemony Over Coffee Comodity

A range of jars contains various type of coffee from all over Indonesia in Dharma Boutique Roastery (DBR), former major coffee brand of Margo-Redjo that hailed as the first company who owned by non-Europeans that gained success as coffee exporter in Dutch East Indie, present days Indonesia.

An advertisement about Margo-Redjo in De Locomotief
newspaper in 1948. (source: delpher.nl) 

A cup of Java, please! a term widely known in coffee outlets mainly in the United Kingdom and the United States. According to an explanation from the United States National Coffee Association (NCA) page, it was explained that coffee plants were originally grown in the Arabian Peninsula, specifically in Yemen, until in the 17th century Dutch merchants who exploring the eastern world hemispheare under the so-called first enterprise in the world,  Veerenidge Oostindische Compagnie (VOC) tried to cultivate it outside Arabian Peninsula. In the beginning, to cultivate coffee outside the Arabian Peninsula turned into failure when they tried to cultivate it in their new colony in Ceylon. But things changed drasticaly when VOC tried it in their most valuable colony of Java, in Indonesian Archipelago. Its not getting so long until this plant became one of the most valuable commodity for VOC commerce acitivity, even when the power shifted into Den Haag after the collapse of the VOC in 1799. This coffee commodity from Java is really a world famous, and the word Java sometimes associated with coffee. A computer-programming language, founded in 1995 by James Goosling that so popular before even use Java as their name and did you remember whats their icon? Its a cup of coffee! 

House of Tan Tiong  with the strong Indische style architecture in 
Kebonkarang, Semarang. The people mostly recognize the house as 
Rumah Kopi Wotgandul, as its not far from Wotgandul neigborhood.

Semarang, the main port city in Central Java was a silent witness to how valuable the trading of coffee commodities in Java was. In 1913, it was noted that the Dutch colonial government recorded 25,852 tons of export of coffee ore from the Dutch East Indies worth 16 million guilders or 437 million dollar in todays money. Most of the traders were dominated by Europeans, however  in the early 20th century a non-European trader emerged from Semarang, as well manage into the ranks of world-class coffee traders from the Dutch East Indies, present days Indonesia. It was Tan Tiong Ie, born in Semarang in 1883 initially tried His luck as a salt trader. Unfortunately,  the business went into bankruptcy and forced Him to move to Bandung and open a bakery. Tan Tiong Ie then returned to his hometown, Semarang and opened an ice plant factory, and finally in 1928, He begin the business that would perpetuate His name, Margo-redjo Koffie. 

According to Alexander Claver's book titled "Dutch Commerce and Chinese Merchants in Java: Colonial Relationships in Trade and Finance, 1800-1942", it is stated that Tan Tiong Ie was the first successful Chinese entrepreneur as a coffee trader and producer in the Dutch East Indies. It was also stated that in the times of economic depression that hit the world in 1930s, Margorejo managed to survived during this difficult times. Partly due to product diversification factors run by the company, which is officially named Koffie Branderij Margoredjo, by making various products based on the prices and qualities. The most expensive product is clearly the Margo-redjo brand, and the cheapest one was Tjap Grobak Idjo. Among the two products, there are other brands such as Tjap Pisau, Tjap Orang-Matjoel, Koffie Sentoso, Koffie Mirama and so on.  This was a breakthrough from His oldest son, Tan Liang Ho who has a strong enthusiasm in the marketing and public relation field. He even act as a copywriter as well as designer for Margo-Redjo advertisement. No wonder, once He has a position as the chairman of Radio Vereeniging "Midden Java", one's of the earliest broadcasting network in Dutch East Indies. He's nominated to seat in the board of advisory for Nederlandsce Indies Radio Omroep Maatschappij (NIROM), the government national radio broadcast company in 1936. 

The stand of Margo-Redjo in annual exhibition title
 Jaarmaarktstand in 1929, designed Liem Bwan Tjie.
(source: Stichting BONAS)

The triumph of this company began to recede after the Pacific War, which then spread to the Dutch East Indies and caused the end of Dutch rule which fall into Japanese hands until 1945. In the early days of the Japanese invasion of the Dutch East Indies there was a panic among the citizens of Dutch East Indies. Pak Basuki Dharmowijono, grandson of Tan Tiong Ie who is now continuing the sustainability of the Kopi Margorejo business said that His great-grandfather also experienced panic when Japan began to enter the Dutch East Indies. He mentioned in His story over that hard period that His Grandfather decide to moved the machines to the Sultanate of Surakarta Palace in Solo to prevent it to be plundered by Japanese.

After Indonesia's independence and the chaotic period during the Revolution for Independence that lasted until the beginning of 1950, it seems difficult for Margo-redjo to regain its position like before, as a major coffee producer and distributor. But the glory of Margo-redjo Coffee in the old days still can be found on Jalan Wotgandul Timur 14, a two-story house with an Indisch architecture. In the same place currently Pak Basuki continues His grandfather legacy with its new name, Dharma Boutique Roastery (DBR), right in where the business started, not so far from Chinatown of Semarang. In the place that also widely known as Rumah Kopi (eng:House of Coffee), a variety of raw coffee ore is processed and then marketed in the form of ore that has been roasted. A wide selection of Indonesian coffee ores ranging from Robusta and Arabica type of Coffee from various locations in Indonesia such as Bengkulu, Gayo-Aceh, Mandailing, Flores, etc. are available here. This outlet serves its customers mainly from various cafes in Semarang from 09.00 to 15.00.

Kali Semarang, Main Artery of Commerce in Semarang

Kali Garang taken from the Jatibarang Dam in 2016. The Kali Garang was the main water sources for Kali Semarang. 

Kali Semarang was a river that divides the city of Semarang, a branch of Kali Garang (Eng: Garang River) from the west part of the city and flows to the Java Sea. The development of Semarang City was really depends on Kali Semarang, as the major commerce hub of the inner city of Semarang since centuries ago. One of the traces was the toponym of Kampung (Eng: village) along Kali Semarang which is an age marker of its vital role for commercial activities for Semarang City. One of them was Kampung Pabean which is now part of the Kecamatan Semarang Utara areas. In this Kampung, used to be the location of customs/ tax posts for the boat which passing through Kali Semarang to trades in the hinterland of ​​Semarang City. There’s a fun fact that on that time where customs post was marked by a large tree trunk that was chained and floated across the river as a barrier in the river flow. This is where the name of Boom Lama was coming from, as the word Boom in Dutch means tree, refers to the tree trunk that has a functions as the entrance gate. The name of Boom Lama still used today as the name of one of the major roads not far from its location.

Kali Semarang taken from the opposite of Dokter Djawastraat, nowadays 
Jalan Kol. Sugiono, nearby Kampung Melayu Semarang in 1900.
(Source: Leiden University Library) 

The settlements then grew following the flow of Kali Semarang such as Kampung Melayu, Pedamaran, Sumeneban, Sebandaran, Kelengan, Sekayu, Bedagan, etc. A journalist from Semarang, Liem Thian Joe who published his book titled Riwajat Semarang, back in 1933 stated that trading activities moved to the Boom Lama area after previously concentrated in Mangkang, in the western part of Semarang city today. Liem Thian Joe said that consider to have the better facilities of the Boom Lama's position as well as its closer to the downtown of Semarang. Thus the Kampung Darat  gained its name as its the location when people who firstly cames to Semarang at that time will ndarat, step their foot in land.

We have to remember that the Semarang city at that time was way smaller than the condition nowadayas. The city of Semarang on 18th century was refers to the part of the city that now called as Kawasan Kota Lama Semarang, an area which is developed from the VOC base which was established in the Sleko area in 1705. This trading post was surrounded by a defensive wall which had five bastions, which later well known as Vijfhoek fortress which means a pentagon. In 1748, due to the increasing commerce activity in Semarang, the VOC main base in Batavia, nowadays Jakarta raised the status of the leader of its trading post in Semarang into governor and its became the center of the area of the Noordoostkust (eng: North East Coast) of Java region. Vijfhoek as the main base of the VOC in Sleko then became unable to accommodate more European migrants, until later this settlement expanded rapidly. It was unknown exactly when European settlers began to organize the area outside Vijhoek as settlement but referrings to the Atlasof Mutual Heritage website, its shows that in 1787 a plan was made to expand the city defensive wall complete with urban arrangement with road networks and various facilities such as church, military barracks, health service facilities, civil service facilities, etc. Interestingly, the road network and the parcels of land were almost unchanged, compared to the current conditions with this map that comes from the past three centuries.

The Groot Boom with the boat tethered on the edge of Kali Semarang taken from the high stories of Uitkijk, ca. 1870-1910
(source: Rijksmuseum)

As the settlements grow bigger, its port as the major trading hub also grow either.  Trading activities in Kali Semarang developed a main port near the European residential area, which is located in the Sleko area, known as Groote Boom. Until now, the remnants of its glory still existed, one of them was the Watchtower to arrange the traffic in Kali Semarang, or in Dutch called as Uitkijk. Its located in the land owned by PT. State Gas (PGN) in Sleko as in the 19th centuries the land was part of the Coal fired Power Plant owned by Nederlandsch Indische Gas Maatschappij. The growth of the trade activity in the city of Semarang then strengthens its position as the main port in the central part of Java Island. Semarang may not  have vast fertile land as its located in swampy and barren land, but its port became its major power. Rural areas in the hinterlands of Central Java that rich in agricultural products are very dependent on the City of Semarang to trades their products. Plus the very prosperous kingdom region in the south, the Vorstenlanden, consist of the Yogyakarta Sultanate, Surakarta Sunanate, Praja Mangkunegaran and Praja Paku Alaman relied heavily on Semarang towards their trades activity.

The schutsluis (locks) that connected Kali Semarang and Kali Baru in 1927.

(Source: Leiden University Library)

The role of Boom Lama then shifted after the construction of the Nieuw Kanaal  also called as Kali Baru in 1872 and was completed in 1878, a response from the increasingly crowded commercial activities after the opening of the Suez Canal. Then the trade activity moved to Nieuw Haven , a new modern port  nowadays known as  Tanjung Emas Port. This canal simplifies the previously winding path of the Semarang River flow, into straight canal, right away approaching the Groote Boom position. The project was equipped with the construction of a new lighthouse and prior to adjusting the water level of the Kali Baru and Kali Semarang, a Sluis (eng: Locks) also built and equipped with a breakwater on each side.

Nieuwe Kanaal also known as Kali Baru, the new canals that also became part of Port of Tanjung Mas Semarang, taken from the top of Willem III Lighthouse in 2017.

The stories about the triumph of Kali Semarang are now no longer traceable. The increasingly dirty condition of the Kali Semarang, coupled with the decreasing water flow and width of Kali Semarang made its impossible for the boat to afloat and passing the river into the downtown. I heard from the locals in Kampung Melayu that the last time He saw boat passing through the Kali Semarang to through His Kampung was in the beginning of 1980’s decade.  Even the Uitkijk building now left in ruins as its looted by the mob during the Reformation in 1998. The locks that used to regulate the boat traffic from the Kali Baru to Kali Semarang was no longer functioning, and above it is now built a pumping house to prevent the Semarang city from the flood. It was a blessed to have the Kali Semarang in the old days but todays its seems no longer anymore as its even endangered the settlers from the flood. Flood was a serious problems in the Semarang city moreover in its northern part as its also facing the serious land subsidence problems. The last four years the government put a serious efforts to revitalized Kali Semarang by dredging and swept away the ilegal settlement on the banks of the river to keep the streams flows well. The people also persuaded not to littering into it, so now its really depends on the people of Semarang for their willingness to preserve it. Will they?

Stadion Semarang, The First Velodrome in East Asia

The Semarangsche Stadion, currently well-known as Stadion Diponegoro as shown in reconaissance photos in January 1945. The complex in its opposite to the right is the Gementelijke Zwembad, currently turns into culinary centre.
(sources: Semarang Beeld van Een Stad)

The needs for sport facilities in the modern city is couldn't be denied, there’s countless car-free day event every weekends thorughout cities in Indonesia to accomodate the needs of its citizen to do sport. Just like what Latin phrase said Mens sana in corpore sano which translated as there’s healthy mind in a healthy body. In the city of Semarang, the efforts to provides public sport facilities once were one step ahead among the cities in Indonesia and its provided by such a crowdfundings movement among its citizens, isnt provided by the government. 

view from the main tribune of the stadium which can be seen
from the distance steeply sloping bend of the cycling track (velodrome)

A stadium but not only accomodate football activity but also standardized athletics tracks and even cycling and motorcycle race tracks, hence its consider as the first modern sports complex in the Dutch East Indies, present day Indonesia according to the Locale Techniek Journal Vol. 3 Issue No. 5 published in 1934. Its pioneering modern style stadium at that time time where its not only an open area for sport with tribunes for its spectators, but also with supporting facilities such as changing rooms, toilets and the other spaces required to support its activity. These changing rooms in the stadium each equipped with a lavatory and shower with hot and cold water. The hot water is obtained by means of a hot water appliance, made by Askania-Werke AG, a Germans company, which works automatically and amply meets the required requirements. Furthermore, each dressing room is equipped with a washing table with mirror, coat hooks, table and benches. 

An overview of the steeply sloping bend of the
cycling track (velodrome)with two warring tricycles.
(source: Locale Techniek Journal Vol. 3
Issue No. 5, 1934)

Besides a football field on its largest dimensions and a modern cement cycling track made of stamped concrete with 10 cm thick sheets whereas this so-called velodrome was the first in East Asia as its mentioned also in the journal! Its indeed that this kind of sport facilities is not the first in the colony as before it there’s several were built e.g Malangsche Stadion or well-known as Gajayana Stadium, opened in August 2nd 1926 which actually much simpler than the Stadium of Semarang. Another its predecessor is in Solo, which only different couple of months with Semarang. The Sriwedari Stadion in Solo which initiated by Sri Susuhunan Paku Buwono X, Sultan of Solo, officialy open in January 1934 and Semarang is in April 1934.

As reported by a Bataviaasch nieuwsblad, the opening of Semarang Stadium held on Sunday, 29th  April 29th 1934. The opening was enlivened by several activity performance which is started with a football match of  Semarang vs Solo, a relay race,  a gymnastic demonstration of 950 students,  Holland-China korfball match,  and closed with cycle and motorbike race which involved riders from Batavia, present day Jakarta and Semarang. To attract the events, the committee cooperate with the major railway company at that time, Nederlandsch Indische Spoorweg Maatschappij (NIS) that for Solo-Semarang, Yogyakarta-Semarang and Surabaya-Semarang lines it allow groups of ten or more people a reduction.

The soccer field covered with Lamuran type of grass, and around it once used as an athletic track of 4 meters wide, then next to it directly the cycling track made of concrete 7 meters wide.  

Its very interesting once again to found out that this Semarangsch stadium, nowadays well-known as Stadion Diponegoro was created and built by private initiative. Because of the fortunate circumstance that a very favorable building site was being put into operation by the Administration Office of Peterongan, its possible to change the city plan with the help of the city's urban advisor Semarang Ir. Th. Karsten as required and to ensure that the access and exit roads to the stadium were provided.

The design of this stadium itself was based on the idea: how can we classify a sports park, which meets all the requirements, on a surface that is as small as possible, with a view to the cost price of the land. The tribunes had to comply with the following information for seating and standing space provided by local associations: main seat stand could accomodate around 1.000 places and the standing places around 8.000. This space consider to be sufficient enough for a large competitions at that time. Its also equipped with such a high-end lighting facilities which consists of 4 pieces of 32 m high masts, partly from the overhangs of the tribunes. Eight spotlights are mounted on each mast for the 1000 Watt football pitch lighting, so that the field is illuminated by 32,000 watts, giving a light intensity of 30 Lux on the field. This lighting is excellent. The illumination of the cycling track is done from the masts before the bends; for straights from the stand The bends are illuminated with 6000 watts each, while the straights are also illuminated with 6000 watts each; total 24,000 Watts.

Semarangsche Gementelijke Zwembad in 1947 by C.J. (Cees) Taillie, a photographer and reporter that serves for Dienst voor Legercontacten (Service for Army contacts) during the Indonesian Independence Revolution period.
(source: Tropenmuseum)

The natural spring in Candi Stoom, Tegalsari, Semarang. This only
active natural springs in the downtown of Semarang once became the
main water sources for the Semarangsche Gementelijke Zwembad.

Later in 1941, a large swimming facilities accross the stadium were built and its designed by Liem Bwan Tjie, the Semarang born architect which famous for its art-deco style. Its has an Olympic-size swimming pool where the race course is 50 metres (164.0 ft) in length and its provided with cafetaria as its supported facilities. The water for this brand new swimming pool provided by the natural springs in Candi Stoom, distributed with the pipeline network almost 3 Km away. This springs currently the only natural springs that still preserved in the downtown areas of Semarang, and serves as the water sources for the neighborhood surround it. Well its not like the stadium in its opposite, its built and managed by the Gemeente (city municipality) of Semarang, thus its called Semarangsche Gemeentelijke Zwembad.  Bataviaasch nieuwsblad on its articles reported that on its opening that held in October 25th 1941, the municipal authorities invited the Dutch Indies Swim Club to organize a competitions between swimmers from Batavia, Bandung, Surabaya and Malang. Couple of polo teams came over so that the opening of the swimming pool grazed by large swimming competitions that cost the municipality ƒ 750.- for the opening. 

The main entrance to the Semarangsche Gemeentelijke Zwembad,
designed by famous Semarang born architect Liem Bwan Tjie.
(source: wikimedia commons) 

The fate of this sport complex nowadays does not reflect its glory in the past at all.  Either the stadium and swimming pool were declined over the decades. The swimming pool even closed in 1999 and turns into a culinary centre with several tenants inside it, and the pool were converted into skate area and fish ponds. The stadium were lucky as its still stood till today but its badly neglected. The peoples nowadays mostly recognized the stadium as the place for concert, and also place for buy a book with cheap prices, as in the east sides of the stadium wall there’s bunch of seconhanded book seller tenant. There’s an rumours in 2013 appears to public from the online advertorial that the stadium will be sold for Rp 260 billion which soon afterward generates a lot of criticism regarding its historical value. But then the 4th Military Area Command of Diponegoro as the current owners  reject the claim and said its no way for them to sold the property as its belongs as the national property of Republic of Indonesia. 

Candi Lama and its Bunch of Historic Building

The Y-junction in Candi Lama (Oud-Tjandi) in the intersection between Jalan dr. Wahidin (Tanah Putih Weg) and Jalan Sisingamangaraja (Kanarie Laan). Behind the reclame kiosk, its located the Hulp Post Kantoor building which until now still owned by PT. Pos Indonesia. (source: Tropenmuseum)

Around 1912, Major of Semarang, W. Th. De Vogel ask the architect K.P.C de Bazel who works in Amsterdam, Netherlands to made a plans for the Semarang city extension plans over the hilly area in its southern part, known as Candi neighborhood. This idea was based on the advice of one's of city council boards, Dr. H.F. Tillema, a pharmachist an enterpreneur who really concern on the hygiene problems. He stated that in Semarang city which consider as coastal city, its lower part were unhealthy. Its density and also the problems with the heat condition of Benedenstad, the plain part of the city which belongs to the city center combined with the high humidity, made its easily for the people suffers from heat fatigue. Thus, He advised several idea regarding the hygiene improvements project such as, sanitary improvements, tap water networks, and also the extension of the city into its hilly area in the south.   

The building of Heuvelschool, currently used as
Puskesmas Candi Lama. The photos taken in 2007.

In 1915, Directeur van Burgerlijke Openbare Werken (BOW), the Department of Civil Works asks Ir. Herman Thomas Karsten to designs the master plans to the new settlements area in this hilly area. The area then well known as New Candi, in Dutch known as Nieuw Tjandi or Candi Baru in Bahasa Indonesia, which still used until now.  Well, if these area given name as New Candi, so where’s the Candi Lama (Old Candi) located? Actualy, the area that in Dutch known as Oud Tjandi,  were a residence area that lies in the southern hilly part of Semarang, start from Tanah Putih, until Jangli area. The toponym of Candi which must be refers to temple were still a mistery until today. No one’s know for sure where the temples location that refers to this name, but there’s an ancient structure found in Candi Lama, in the shortcut way from Jangli to Karanganyar Gunung, nearby the Sendang, a natural water sources. Many peoples believed that this was the location of the temple that later became the toponym of this area.

Not so many discussion about Candi Lama neighborhood compares to Candi Baru neighborhood, which actualy it has a bunch of historical fact that for Me its also exciting. Once I met with Ron van Der Wal, whose His wife’s great grand-father, was the first headmaster of the first Heuvelschool (Hill School), the name was Mr. Goedhart. The Heuvelschool was still stand, and used as Puskesmas (smallest unit of people healthcare services provided by government) of Candi Lama. Across the Heuvelschool, was the location of Hotel Tjandi, a famous Hotel in Semarang that popular for its swimming pool. It was turns into the military compound after the indepence of Indonesia, and around 1990’s decades unfortunately its demolished. The house of Goedhart itself, was also interesting, since its later used as the Hulp Postkantoor, a post office branch that served the hilly parts of Semarang known as Heuvelstad. The buildings also still stand till today! Its even just renovated recently and maybe would be reused as another commercial function probably.

The only buildings that remains in Nederlandsch Indische Gas Maatschappij (NIGM) complex in Gang Schmalz (currently Jalan Singotoro Raya), Candi Lama. Some people said that behind this building, there was two large tank made of steel. Its probably part of the gas instalation in the past, but unfortunately its gone.

The family portrait in front of the house in Candi
Lama, taken around 1916-1920. This Tudor-style
house is still preserved, made it the only buildings
with Tudor-style remains in the neighborhood.
(source: Tropenmuseum) 

There’s a street in Candi Lama neighborhood known as Gang Semal, which actualy taken from the old names of this street, Gang Schmalz. Many of the residents surround it, or even Semarang people still called the street as Gang Semal, although oficialy the name is Jalan Singotoro Raya. There’s a lot of historical building surround here, like Sanatorium and the Nederlandsch Indische Gas Maatschappij (NIGM) complex. The NIGM complex, there’s a big possibilities that before there’s a gas power plant set up here. Before the electricity installation based on cable, they used the gas network fueled by coal to enlightened the street and house. The gas power used as electricity means in Semarang was mentioned in De Locomotief, the prominent newspaper based on Semarang that in February 2nd 1898, in Semarang succesfully set 15 gas instalations in order to fulfilled the need for street lighting.  The complex of NIGM itself only leaving one building remains. The building once turns into a famous café in Semarang, Ours Café where one’s of the city Jazz community, Jazzngisoringin established in 2009 through its routine agenda of organizing Jazz gigs in the small stages under the Beringin tree (latin: ficus benjamina) on its yard. Unfortunately, its closed in 2010 and left the building neglected until recently the owner which is now PT. Gas Negara made a little renovation. 

There’s much more old building that interesting to see in this neighborhood such as the building nearby the Y-junction of Jalan dr. Wahidin and Jalan Sisingamangaraja (before known as Kanarie Laan, since a lot of Kenari trees over here) which consider as the only building with Tudor style that remains in Candi Lama. Also the art-deco house that designed by Liem Bwan Tjie that situated near the junction of Jalan dr. Wahidin. The house with its steeping entrance for sure has a best view towards the Java Sea and the lower part of Semarang among the others building in the neighborhood. The Badjak Bron a natural water resources that once served pipeline water network in several area in South Semarang its also located in Candi Lama. The water sources nowadays still used by the people in Karanganyar Gunung neighborhood. Wish it always be preserved anyway.

Semarang Golf Club (SGC) in Memories

Golf courses at Tjandi Sport Club, Semarang, later known as Semarang Golf Club (SGC) taken by E. Veltman in 1937.
(sources: nga-earlygolf.nl)

The current condition of club house at Tjandi Sport Club.

Golf as a sport has long been known in here Indonesia since the colonial period. The tropical climate makes golf in Java, unfortunately, to a seasonally game. During the so-called dry seasons, dry fairways, greens and grass is made it hard to be played, only a few peoples still continue to play. At that time of course neither automatic sprinkle to keep the grass greens during the dry seasons nor golf car to made the mobility easier invented. Therefore, the golf competitions in the old days were held in all the clubs in Java during the months of November to May, during the wet seasons. Until 1937, in Dutch Indies there were several cities already which have golf courses as follows; Batavia in Bukit Duri, Bandung, Semarang, Buitenzorg (currently Bogor), Tegal, Malang, Cheribon, Garut in Ngamplang all of them consist of 9-hole courses. Surabaya golf courses in Gunungsari, the only golf courses with 18-hole courses, but soon in the year of 1937, Batavia will built its new golf courses in Rawamangun, also in 18-hole courses to changed its old ones in Bukit Duri.

Date back in 1872, the Jakarta Golf Club was the oldest Golf Club in Southeast Asia. The original name of the golf club was known as the Batavia Golf Club and the founders were Mr. A. Gray and Mr. T.C. Wilson from Britain. In the early days of golf in Dutch Indies (Indonesia during colonial period) , golf barely only played by the British expatriates. Only a little Dutch people enthusiast in this kind of sports. But as the time goes by, golf became more popular among the people in Dutch Indies.  Also in Semarang, which is at 1895, the Tjandi Sport Club founded.  Located in Kanarielaan (currently Jalan Sisingamangaraja) which is in the guide book titled Semarang vooruit published in 1935, it described the golf course as excellent at not only from the standpoint of the golfer, but also in terms of natural beauty and listed among one of the best recreations after a day of hardworks. The Tjandi Sports Club were not only consist of a golf courses but also some other sport. There available grasscourt tennis and also cricket arena! Well no wonder its also mentioned that most of its member were british. Tjandi Sport Club have a short but interesting 9-hole course and its also a club house on the north part of the golf courses. Tjandi Sports Club got its historical moments while in 1901, the first golf club championship in Dutch Indies were held here.

The golf courses area, currently in progress to be build as a real estate, Green Candi Residence.

After the Independence, the golf courses in Tjandi Golf Club changed its name into Semarang Golf Club (SGC). Its remains to serves people in Semarang until 2006, when the city municipality decide to moved it to the bigger golf courses in Gombel hill. The plans actualy gained protest from the peoples surround it who most of them got the livelihood from SGC. But the plans executed anyway, the golf courses then unfortunately demolished and on the land above it built real estate of Green Candi Residence. Only the club house survived until today, but its badly damaged because of its neglected right after the SGC closed. There’s no guarantee also until when it will be still stand there cause its not yet listed as the heritage building of Semarang City. A sad fate for the place with a significance historical values where , the first golf club championship in Dutch Indies/ Indonesia have held!

Source: Golf Magazijn, "Officieel Orgaan van het Nederlandsch Golfcomité". 1e Jaargang No. 8, 15 October 1937

Borsumij Building, the only Legacy of J.F.L Blankenberg in Semarang

Borsumij Office of Semarang in 1939, shortly after its finished. The contrast between the old-colonial architecture of Koepelkerk, and the modern art deco of Borsumij.

(source: Locale Techniek, 1940)

In the middle of 1938, a fifty’s-years old architect, Johan Frederik Lodewijk Blankenberg was asked by the N.V. Borneo Sumatera Maatschappij (Borsumij) to designed their new office buildings in Semarang. Blankenberg, whom at that time were the chairman of  Nederlandsch-Indische Architectenkring (NIAK), accept this offers. Here, Blankenberg as its requested by Borsumij, have to designs the office similar with what His fellow architect, Cosmas Citroen had done in Surabaya that had designed their office also in 1934. In His opinion, Blankenberg agreed that the Citroen designs for the Borsumij building in Surabaya gives it the best of the best of modern office building in Dutch Indies (Indonesia during colonial period), as it already addressed in advance to the maximization of space, function and natural lighting. 

The plaque in the entrance of  the Borsumij building of Semarang. 

The Borusmij building in Semarang, located in the centre of the Kota Lama area, in its main road, Heerenstraat (currently Jalan Letjen Soeprapto) and next to Koepelkerk, the landmark of Kota Lama. The building, seen from outside maybe just like another art-deco building built in colonial period but inside it, were remarkable.  The materials inside, its floor, wall, stairs, stained glass and pillars so colourful. The marble floors colour . The stairs decoration used the colour of Arabescato (creamy green with black veins) when the walls were in Rosso Levanto (dark red with white veins), both Italian marbles.  The columns coated in lead glazed black colored moldings, when the basement used the gray green granite plester. At the entrance, there were friezes and ceramic plaque stated that the first stone of the construction laid by M.C . Albert-Rauh, the wife of the Borsumij Agent of Semarang in Ferbuary 4th 1939. Construction was by the Firm. Ooiman and van Leeuwen in Semarang and after ten months, in October, its finished. The construction costs approximately ƒ 150.000.- (almost 12 billion rupiahs in the current value) for office and the new warehouses on the norths if the office.

One's of the Borsumij new warehouses building, located on the north
of the offices. This warehouse also designed by Blankenberg and built
in 1939.

Borsumij itself was a one’s of the major company in Dutch Indies at that times, its even considered as one’s of top big five companies in Dutch Indies along with Nederlandse Handel Maatschappij (NHM), Geo Wehry, Lindeteves Stokvis and Jacobson van den Berg. It was founded by J.W. Schlimmer, agent of NHM at Banjarmasin (East Kalimantan). In 1883, at a time when NHM shifted its attention to banking rather than commodity trade, Schlimmer took over the NHM facilities in the region and began his own company, Schlimmer & Co. In 1894 it became a limited liability company under the name of N.V Borneo-Sumatera Maatschappij (Borsumij) with its headquaters at 's-Gravenhage (another name for The Hague, then its no longer used after the city municipality start from 1990 to consistently using Den Haag/ The Hague as the official name), Netherlands. Beside Banjarmasin, it opened offices at Pontianak and Medan. The company came to hold a monopolistic role in the commodity trade in Kalimantan and Sumatera, related to the name of the company. As there were no large credit institution during these early years, Borsumij was able to succesfully expand its business. The company thereupon invested heavily in agricultural and mining estates, specifically rubber and coal. By the late twenties decade, Borsumij acquired large rubber sources and became direct supplier to Goodyear at Singapore. In the early 20's century, Borsumij also became major export-import company, and its made the company growth bigger. Borsumij ended their fate as big company in 1958, while its nationalized by Indonesian Government following the West Papua Crisis. The company then became state-owned company until nowadays, and its asset managed by PT. Perusahaan Perdagangan Indonesia (PPI).

Source: 

1. Locale Techniek, 1940, volume 009, issue 001
2. Commercial Networks in Modern Asia by Linda Grove and Shinya Sugiyama

Siranda-Kanaal, An Old City Drainage System

Part of Siranda-Kanaal, in front of Taman Budaya Raden Saleh (TBRS) along Jalan Sriwijaya, or Tegalwareng Weg in the old days. 

Semarang has been long time well known as the city which is oftenly suffered from flood. As a harbour city, built in the vast swampy land, Semarang during the rain season, water overflow from its major river, Kali Semarang then its threatened the city. The problems then solved by constructed Kanal Banjir Barat (Bandjir Kanaal West) and then Kanal Banjir Timur (Bandjir Kanaal Oost) in 1900. The purpose of the construction of this two flood prevention canal is to control the water flows from the major rivers in Semarang like, Kali Garang (the sources for Kali Semarang), Kali Babon and Kali Bajak. But in the 20th Century, the development of Semarang  made it needs more livingspace for its residences.  The city developed to the south, to the area that was mainly ricefields and also to its hilly part of the city known as Heuvelstad. From the its newly hilly terrain, known as Tjandi, the new residencies area in Semarang, its need a new canal, to prevent the waterflows from its hilly terrain for flooding the new residencies area below it and also because of the waterflows when its rains to the east is still not in good condition. Then the Gemeente (eng: city municipality) Semarang on 7 November 1930, approved the proposal to the construction of Siranda-Kanaal. 

Maps depicted the plan of Siranda-Kanaal construction in Locale Techniek journals in 1937. 

Siranda Kanaal, built in the foot hills of Siranda hills, and its lies about 3 Km until its meets with the headwater of Kanal Banjir Timur in Peterongan. To built is isnt easy, its have to dig a lot due to its position when its entered Genoek Weg and Tegalwareng Weg (currently Jalan Sriwijaya) located in the hilly terrain.  The canal also consist of a tunnnel with the length about 700 metres.  The construction began in July, 1931 and finished in November, 1931 right in the months where the wet season is about to reach its peak. The very irregular structure of the soil in places where layers between various rocks even wet sand layers were digged.  The lorries networks also set up for the purpose of the construction of Siranda Kanaal to transport all of the materials which were taken after its dug off from its place, or to send a new materials for the construction either. Also, its equipped by ground lift, with 1,2 tons cappacity to carried the materials. The land above the tunnels projected to became the new cemeteries for the Europeans, replacing the old ones in Kobong, but its never realized. 

The Siranda-Kanaal during its construction in 1931.
(source: Locale Techniek journals, 1937)

The Siranda-Kanaal construction cost approximately ƒ 260 000,-, about 20 billions rupiah in current values. Half of the cost to construct it, funded by the central government. Nowadays, the canal still in use, and even in the 2015 its revitalized by the city municipality by strengthen its foundation also doing some excavation to dug up the sedimentation. But also, in the canal section nearby Peterongan market, the first concrete construction market in Semarang, above the canal its built three-storey building, known as Pasar Inpres building. These building, covered almost 200 metres of its canal, and actually its against the law where its illegal to built a building above the open drainage/ sewer.  Also with the rapid development of Peterongan market, the inspection way along the canal were occupied by the sellers, and sadly these canals oftenly became huge garbage dump for them. People always complaining while the flood happens but in the other hand, the awareness of not to throw trash in the drainage, sewer, and river either were so low. 

Sources:

1. Locale Techniek, 1937, Volume 006, Issue 003

2. Gedenkboek der Gemeente Semarang 1906-1931

Bank Mandiri Kota Lama Semarang, former "De Factorij" of Nederlandse Handel Maatschappij

The office of Nederlandse Handel Maatschappij (NHM) in Semarang in 1910. Situated in the "gate" of the Kota Lama (eng: Old Town), made it one of the most famous buildings amongst other buildings in this neighborhood. The entrance under the tower is no longer exist. (source: Leiden University Library)

Ever been to Museum Bank Mandiri, Jakarta? This former head office of Nederlandse Handel Maatschappij (NHM), in the main entrance, its written on the wall “FACTORIJ”. Here in Semarang, once I saw also in the online archives of KITLV, mentioned this word also (factorij) referings  the office of NHM in Semarang. Dutch and English has the same roots, known as the West Germanic language, so the word factorij, I wondering if its also has the same meaning as factory, but I was wrong. In the dutch languages, factorij means an establishment for traders carrying on business in a foreign country, this word also used in the old days by the British but no longer again, as in the oxford dictionary explains. 

The lobby in the 2nd floor after the
renovation finish. Seems all preserved well.

Its make sense, since the NHM actualy established in 1824 by King Willem I of the Netherlands to promote and develop trade, shipping and agriculture overseas. The NHM actually the new version of Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC) that went to bankcruptcy in 1799. NHM have a responsibility to expanding existing trade, as well as financing industry and shipping mainly to East Indie (currently Indonesia), the Dutch main trade route. King Willem I of the Netherlands of course have a vision to revitalized its glorious period of trade, like under the VOC period that brought the Dutch into its Golden Age. Then in 1830, the Governor General introduced the new policy called Culuurstelsel. Cultuurstelsel meant that the indigenous people lease 20% of its land to be used for products for the export commodities. These export commodities such as indigo (dye), tea, sugar, and the most favourites at that time coffee! De Amsterdamse koffieveilingen (eng: Amsterdam Coffee Auction) were world famous as the place to get a good quality of coffee. This also later became the background for the story of Max Havelaar that criticize the practice of cultuurstelsel as the indigenous people sufferings from that policy.

As the protest continues to growth, the cultuurstelsel then abolished in 1870. This started the new phase in Dutch Indies, that is the liberation of economy. NHM then engaged in financing and banking operations. Its even later became one’s of the top big five company in Dutch Indies, together with Lindeteves-Stokvis, Borsumij, Geo Wehry and Jacobson van Den Berg. In the late of 19th centuries, almost all of the major cities in Dutch Indies have the NHM branch on it, Semarang of course one of it. 

The view from the balcony above the
main entrance towards the Societeit Brug. 
Peoples oftenly calls it as Jembatan Mberok.

The building of NHM in Semarang located in former sites of Societeit Amiticia (thats why the bridge in front of it called Societeit Brug, brug=bridge). Facing to the west with a tower that visible from one’s of the Semarang major yet important street of Bodjong (now Jalan Pemuda), made it easily recognized from distance. The building start to construct in August 2nd 1908 as its written in the plaque inside the buildings. Designed by Prof. Jacob Frederik Klinkhamer in Netherlands, then He appointed D.W. Hinse to Semarang to became the inhouse architect who as the overseer of the buildings progress. The buildings has a beautiful façade, with a row of wide expresionism style of arch shaped were dominated the view of it. The buildings now owned by Bank Mandiri, the heir of all NHM assets in the whole Indonesia after its been nationalized in 1960. Bank Mandiri  actualy merged from four different banks in July, 1999, such as Bank Bumi Daya (BBD), Bank Dagang Negara (BDN), Bank Ekspor Impor Indonesia (Bank Exim), dan Bank Pembangunan Indonesia (Bapindo). All of that four banks actualy owned the assets from the foreign company nationalization policy in the late 50’s decade. Thus, made Bank Mandiri had plenty of heritage buildings, all over Indonesia. This company anyway, such a good example how the corporation should take care of its asset, which belongs to the heritage sites. Just like their asset in Semarang, this former NHM buildings, just renovated and its re-inaugurated this November, 2016.

Wish the others will follow the steps

The Misplaced of Landraad Semarang

Landraad Semarang in 1904 taken from its backyard. Later the backyard built into Weeskamer building in 1907.
(source: Leiden University Library) 

Something that I love from learning history is that this subject were really dynamic. An acknowledgement about an events, about places, everythings in history could be change everytime when peoples reveals something new. Like a bunch of mistery to solved,We’ll never end to digging everythings related to history, there’s millions of opportunity it will find something new. All of the things actually start with one things, curiousity!

Landraad location depicted in  a 1909 map.
(source: Leiden University Library) 

Just like what I found recently, about the building so-called Landraad, one’s of the court that set by colonial government in the old days.  There’s a building in Kota Lama that known as the former Landraad buildings. Now the building turns into fancy restaurant and one’s of the favourite dinner place in the city of Semarang. The restaurant for sure servings the combination of good food and also 19th centuries antique environments.    

The zoom of the landraad building.
there's a sign in the wall written
"Zaal van den Landraad" and
the dungeon cells its also.
(source: Leiden University Library) 

Landraad basicaly is a superior court for the Non-Europeans peoples. Indigenous peoples under the area ruled by colonial government and other so-called natives and Foreign Orientals, including the Chinese were became its subject.  Landraad have been established in all capitals of Kabupaten (eng: Regencies) and in few other centres. They hold sessions weekly and are composed of jurist, who is the chairman, of the Bupati (eng: Regent) and of such important indigenous chiefs as have been appointed as members by or on behald of the Governor-General. The indigenous persons who make it a profession to give legal assistance were up to short time ago as a rule known very unfavourably. They had little or no knowledge of law and many of them were only there in order to promote litigation or to provoke existing action. Then, its always makes me wonder, that this building is too fancy to be a court, especialy during the old days when the indigenous peoples were treated as derde klasse people’s, as an Inlander. 

In every map, I hardly found any statement that this place once used as Landraad. Even more, I found that Landraad were located in Boebakan Weg (now Jalan Bubakan), about 500 meters to the souths. Misplaced? Thats what I thought for the first time. But then I strongly believed that its 100% misplaced, after I found out that this building, that once believed as Landraad actually is Landgerecht building, also kind of court but different purpose as well as its subject. Landgerecht is a court for petty criminals that established in 1914 replacing the role of Politierol that abolished in 1901. Landraad Semarang location is nearby the Central Gevangenis (eng: Central Prison) and its have its own dungeon cells also. Its totaly make senses due to people who prosecuted in Landraad  is the peoples with serious criminal case. A famous figures from the nationalist movements, Mas Marco Kartodikromo got His 8 months of jail sentenced here, in Landraad Semarang on 1916. I believes much more peoples from the nationalist movements were prosecuted here, due to Semarang at that time became the most progresives city for the nationalist activism, one's of the reason is the revival of Sarekat Islam afdeeling Semarang. But unfortunately, this building that has an important historical values was gone and even its surroundings totaly changed. The Central Gevangenis, Landraad and also Weeskamer buildings that once in one complex were demolished once its became a theme park called Taman Hiburan Diponegoro, simply known as THD. THD then declining in early 90’s decade and changed into shopping complex until today. 

Source: Colonial Policy: Volume II The Dutch East Indies