Pasar Johar, the Traditional Market with Modern Structures

 Pasar Johar in 1938, from Djoernatan Weg (Jalan H.Agus Salim),  looks so clean and luxurious.  Far different from the current situation (Photos by: Troopenmuseum)

Market has an important role in the Economic sector of a city. Here could be calculated how the economic sector growth. The traditional market for me is the ideal place for the economic activity, because there was a nearly perfect economic competition models implemented here. Its not like in the supermarket, that the price is monopolized by the sellers, marginalizing the role of buyers as price takers. Well talking about Traditional market, in Semarang city there is a famous traditional market, Pasar Johar (pasar, eng: market), reputedly has been the largest in South East Asia in the past.

The history of Pasar Johar begin in 1860, when there is a market formed in the eastern side of the town square of Semarang (Aloon-Aloon Semarang) and its fenced by rows of johar (senna siamea) trees, Thus why this market called Pasar Johar. Considering the economic growth of Semarang city and also peoples demand of the sufficient market building, in 1933 its designed the compact, modern and large market by Ir. Thomas Karsten, where the shaped is adopted the shaped of Pasar Jatingaleh building.  This new building unites the role of five existed market at that time there was pasar johar, pasar pedamaran, pasar beteng, pasar jurnatan and  pasar pekojan.

Dutch soldier possed in front of Pasar Johar on 1945
(Photos by: H.J.Lankhuisen)

Its situated in the eastern edge of Aloon-aloon Semarang, maybe if we imagined its with nowadays situation its just like the shooping centre surround Simpang Lima Square, the shooping centre near the centre of crowd. Unfortunately, the aloon-aloon Semarang now is already changed into Yaik Permai shooping centre building. Back to the Pasar Johar, ithe main characteristic of this building is its six metres high foundation shaped like a mushroom, and the flat roof with elevation in some place as ventilation, makes the temperature cool even its have no air conditioner. This building fulfilling all the site that planned with no yard or open air place, makes its comply with Karstens purpose to efficencing the available land.

In 1960's, the north sides of building, meet  a change, and its added a wall around the fence, purposed to adding new room. This caused its appearance doesnt match with the past architecture and ventilation substandard. We can see the addition of structures seems like being forced, without considering the esthetic value of the building itself. We still could see it on the 2nd floor above the entrance Pasar Johar. What a pity!

Tracing the Indisch Empire Architecture in Semarang

Koninklijke Nederlandsch-Indisch Leger (KNIL) inspection in front of De Vredestein (1947). During the Indonesian Revolution, the building functioned as the Headquarters of Tijgers Brigade of KNIL.

Travelling around the city in the afternoon is one’s of my favourite way to refresh da brain from da routinity. Thank God I’m domiciled in Semarang City where most of the old building still could be seen until nowadays, even some of them are disappeared, like a fact that I found it almost a months ago when I visited my lecturer house in Peterongan region, Most of the Joglo houses with the mixed architecture of Western and Eastern style being torned down, what a pity!

De Vredestein in 1945, by H.J.Lankhuizen 

Talking about the architecture of the old building, then I realized that its must be represented of the age that the building being built. Then I found an articles about the “Indisch Empire” Architecture. Anyway reading about the article itself, its so interesting because its has a relation with the periods of  Governor General Herman Willem Daendels (1808-1811). He affected colonial architecture in Dutch East Indies during 19th century. His style of leadership that was arrogant and tough has been succeeded to reborn proud of Dutch nation as a colonist and also eliminate Javanese traditional architecture that was started to adopt by some Dutch ‘aristocrat’ at the end of 18th century for housing development. Daendels’ governance initiated new style of architecture which is known as ‘Indische Empire’. The style has been adopted from ‘Empire’ style of France and has made some adjustment with local climate and life style of Dutch East Indies The style has been used in Dutch East Indies during 19th century.

De Vredestein (Wisma Perdamaian), the official
residence of Jawa Tengah Governor (2012)

The main characteristic of Indisch Empire Style Building was a large area of front terrace (voor galerij) and rear terrace (achtergalerij). And in the large building that adopt this style of architecture, mostly also have its pavilion beside the main building. The most dominated style of this style is on the style of pillars in the terrace that adopted the Greek or Romans (doric, ionic, corinthian) style, both on the ‘voor galerij’ or in the ‘achter galerij’ itself.

If we wanna see about the example of this kind of architecture in Semarang, we could see the De Vredestein (Wisma Perdamaian) building in the north side of Tugu Muda Monuments. Built in the era of VOC by Nicolaas Harting that became the Governor of the North Coast of Java  in 1754, this building became the official house of the Governor of the VOC and later after the collapse of VOC in 1799, for the resident of Semarang City. After the independence of Indonesia, this building owned by the government, and used as APDN (Academy of Public Administration) office in 1978. Then in 1994 until now,  this building was used as the official residence of the Governor of  Jawa Tengah Province, replacing its former residence in Puri Gedeh.

Source: Handinoto's Journals of "DAENDELS DAN PERKEMBANGAN ARSITEKTUR DI HINDIA BELANDA ABAD 19."

Aboekasan Atmodirono (1860 – 1920), the first architect from Indonesia

Aboekasan Atmodirono

Today we commemorating 104th of National Awakening Days. Despite the controvercies about the dates that stated as this national days, as the Semarang people, I’d like to share one’s of Semarang people who also contributing in the new way of struggle aiming the independence of Indonesia. Through education and his skills he opened the colonialist eyes that the indigenous people also able to have an ability as they have. He was Aboekasan Atmodirono (1860 – 1920), the first architect from Indonesia.

Admodirono Street, on
Central Semarang Sub-District

Atmodirono, graduated from Middelbare Technische School and successfully gained degree as an opzichter(supervisor). Known well as the dedicated person in his field of job, and his European friends granted him as de eerste inlandse architect (the first Indigenous architect), in the decades of ‘10 he serve in Departement van Burgerlijke Openbare Werken (Departement of Public Works) in Batavia. As the progressive movement of nationalism, Atmodirono also took part on it and joined in 1st Boedi Oetomo Congress and listed as one’s of chairperson candidates. When the Dutch-Indies government establishing voolksraad as the answer of the indigenous people aspiration of indigenous people political status, Atmodirono selected as one’s of the indigenous people representatives from Boedi Oetomo organization and also as the representatives from civil service of indigenous people association called “Mangoenhardjo”.

He died in 1920, and its little bit difficult to observe his life deeper. His name nowadays immortalized as the one’s of the road name in the area central Semarang district. His sketch of architecture posted as a book by R.A. van Sandick in 1921 and titled Levensschets van M.A Atmodirono. 

There’s Nothing More Fun than Being at The Top

Greeted at the end of the long holiday weekend, it's time to realize a new experience, yap its called Climb a mountain! Yes, I really never felt such pleasure in the highest peak and enjoy the beauty of nature, admiring the creation of the Almighty, the creator of the Universe . Then, it was decided, early April the Easter long weekend, I’ll realized this new experiences.

Then, team assembled, initially there were 15 people planned to participating, but on the D-Day, only 13 people who bravely encourage they self to conquer the peak of Ungaran Mountain. Preparations are made, all gears are prepared, and this time the team was led by my friend who is a Mapala(Mahasiswa Pecinta Alam) members, Arsono Sugiharto. Arsono, managed everything related to the what is need to do and need to prepared of.

Maghreeb time coming over, athan was greet, but we were still not set, the preparation has not been completed yet, we still lack the motornikes, as a vehicle to take us to the Pos Mawar, one of the starting point for climb the Ungaran Mountain. Finally after all is clear, we start the trail struggling with a jammed flow on the main road of Semarang-Jogja highway through the cold night, with one detination Pos Mawar, Tirto Umbul , Bandungan District. Unlucky at the start of the trip, one of his motorbikes tire is leaking, the motorbike is forced to be left in nearby resident house near there. Because of its happened on the middle of the trip, in the middle of woods and its in the nite, pretty dark there, damn it, well, is it a bad sign? Could be, but life must go on right? ;)

At 9.17 pm, we arrived in Pos Mawar and then suddenly we met another group, which is no others they were our own friends, Dani, together with another 4 mens . Yap, we are now consist of 18 people. After lil introduction, filling the data for administrative purposes, then continued to check the gear, and the last one, a little briefing from they who experienced climb the Ungaran Mountain, then yap! The journey begins!

Firstly we walking through the pine forest, and walked slowly towards the west, into the forest and the narrows roads. Very bright the moonlight that nite, and it is wonderful to look east, flickering lights of Semarang, Ungaran, Kendal, and Salatiga City in the distance seems so beautiful. After exploring the pine woods for nearly two and a half hours, we arrived at the coffee plantation, a sign that we have been close to the Dusun Promasan, a transit point before climbing the Ungaran Mountain. Here we separated with Dani and his company, who decided to immediately climb to the top without transit. Finally, at around 11.30 pm, we reached the Promasan, and stayed in the house of one of the resident there. After got our dinner and our Isha prayers, soon we’re asleep, because at exactly in the 3:00 am in the morning we'll have to start to climb, so we could enjoy the sunrise from the peak of Mountain.

The alarms rang! some of my friends who have been awakened, wake the others, this time only nine people who decided to climb. Approximately at 3:45 am, the trail is begin, back through the coffee plantations, and we arrived at the foothill of the Ungaran Mountain. in the middle of the trail, there’s a debate about the climbing lane, about whats supposed to be the right lane, since its still dark so its difficult to see clearly. High shrubs obstruct our view,more high, it’ll find the higher bushes and steeper road. There was visible a flashlight from a distant, it seems from other climbers, we must be on the right track, I though. But then, the flashlight was getting closer to us and finally we also met with them, unfortunately, they said that, this way is a wrong path, they decided to give up because it has been since 03:00 am, tracing this path and a ended with the dead end! We have no choice, we ought to go down again.

Some of team member started to be pessimistic, including me. At the bottom, at the starting point, we take a break, its already 5:31 am, the sun has been rise from the east horizon. Fortunately, we still have a team member who still energic , they encouraged the other, giving spirit that we couldn’t give up, because we already in this place. Then we continue our trail.

The lane still bushes, but this tme is not as many as in the first lane. Through the slippery and steppy lane accompanied by birdsong in the morning, this trail was so great, and of course this atmosphere added spirit to get to the peak, as soon as possible. There is a natural sign that indicates whether we are close to the peak or not, that is a giant rock. When we were passed that giant rock, we felt so happy because it means that the peak is already near. Finally, after going through an extensive savanna, we reached the peak of the Ungaran mountain. Praise and gratitude spoken, and soon the beautiful scenery greet us, in the height of 2050 amsl(above mean sea level) . So its right that, there’s nothing more fun than being at the top.