Was Mata Hari, The Famous Exotic Dancer and Spy Ever Performed at Semarang?

Semarang Stadschouwburg in 1925, see the different from whats remains now. Before it has two entrance, north and south, where currently its southern entrance along with some of its structure demolished, make a way for the establishment of Marabunta building. (Source: Leiden University Library)

Two colossal ant statues perched on top of the building in Jalan Cendrawasih, former Oosterwal Straat in Kota Lama Semarang. The building that currently empty after before its used as a restaurant, indeed became a landmark in the blocks. These two ant statues was the reason, especially for thos who visited Semarang by train and get off at Tawang Station and passing the Jalan Cendrawasih on their way towards the city centre. They’ll definitely cross this one-way street, and then this building will be dimly visible on their left side.

 

Marabunta building with its giant ant statue on top of it in 2017.

This building, simply known as Marabunta, was quite popular with the story about the building that once became an Schouwburg (eng: Opera House)  that easily to be spotted in the neigborhood. A lots of articles, TV shows or just a simply post on social media mentioned that Marabunta, was a building built from the colonial period. Well, its not that old actualy, You can easily found the proof on its entrance  where there’s an inauguration inscription about the building, and its mentioned that Marabunta was inaugurated in 2006. Considered to be a new building in the Kota Lama Semarang then which means as an Old City where most of the buildings built either in the end of 19th century or early 20th century. The inscription plaque was also a little bit confusing, since Marabunta itself has actually been built in 1995 and in 1999 it was functioned as a cafe as locals said.

But out of the confusion, real Schouwburg building was next to Marabunta, a building thatcurrently abandoned, roofless and filled with bushes. This neglected structure was the Stadschouwburg building that in the old days has 2 entrance the north and the south. About third part of the property destroyed and Marabunta was built on top of it, as well as dissapeared its south entrance. The building of Schouwburg was also popular with the name of Komedie building because of the Toneel shows that most of the time having comedy theme and its performed regularly over there. Even the name of the road of Oosterwaal Straat where the Schowburg located, also have another name as Komedie Straat. Its still  unrevealed when it was built, but on the map of Semarang in 1845, the Schowburg has been embedded in the map. This building was once a military dormitory owned by Kodam (Military Regional Command) IV Diponegoro , but currently it was a private ownership. One of the locals that used to resided there as Her Father served as army told me that once the Schouwburg when its turns into dormitory once experiencing a fire that also badly damaged its rear structure.  

Schouwburg condition taken in 2014 (photos by: Muhammad Vikram) 

Schouwburg also has a more spectacular story that widely popular among the people of Semarang particularly. There was a belief that World War I espionage, famous for its erotic dances, Mata Hari once held a show in Semarang, specificaly in this Schouwburg. Margaretha Geertruida Zelle, the real name of Mata Hari its indeed lived in the Dutch East Indies for a couple years. She got Her pseudonym as Mata Hari, a malay word means The Sun since 1897 during her study of traditional Javanese dance and culture in Malang, where She also lived there from 1897 to 1902. After returning to Europe, Mata Hari then widely known as a dancer and soon She got a popularity  with the courage to wear an ancient outfit where She got inspiration from the reliefs from the temples while She were in Java. An outfit that exposed the curve of Her body, and for the Europeans public at that time, its considered to be a “very brave” or even inapropriate, but once again by the westeren standard at that time. Seeing upon Her career as a dancer which just start upon Her return to The Netherlands, it was very unlikely that Mata Hari had ever performed in Semarang, nor there had been strong records and evidence that he had visited the city of Semarang.

Inside the Schouwburg building in 2016,
taken from its rear courtyard.

However, there is an interesting story from this building that many people missed. Its the story of R.A. Kartini, the heroes of Woman Emancipation in Indonesia which is during Her childhood had watched shows in this building together with Her others two sister.  Mentioned in the book titled Door Duisternis Tot Licht (eng: From the Darkness to the Light) a summarize of Kartini’s letter and diary made by J.H. Abendanoen. On page 248, Kartini tells that for the first time in Her life, She was outside Her residence without being accompanied by Her parents or Her guards . "I remember one night, my sister and I went to a show at the Semarangsche Schouwburg, and this was the first time I was in the midst of a crowd without the presence of any of my other sisters, We both felt strange in the midst of that atmosphere," Kartini wrote.

Of course this story should be widely known by the public as well, not only the story about Mata Hari that less accurate. The story of the courage given by R.M.A.A. Sosroningrat, Kartini's father who was a regent of Japara to give her daughters the opportunity to see the outside world in the midst of a common seclusion tradition when it was applied to daughters of nobility before marriage was remarkable. Do not let this story be forgotten, as well as the Schouwburg which neglected and slowly turns into ruins.

A Guidance to Become Such An Amateur Detective

Hello World!

First all i'd like to say thank's to http://semarang.nl

Because of what?Because of this site, i could found the oldest (i thought ) maps of semarang city which is describes the condition of Semarang city on the colonialization era perfectly. It's very usefull for us, especially for them who want to know more about history.

Talking about the maps, the maps gives us a lot of information such as the famous places at that time even the name of the street. The condition is not too far different from the nowadays condition.

For example, the Bodjong road on that moment is already exist. Along the Bodjong rd, we can see on the mapa that there is a tram tracks along the street. But, sometimes, we couldn't found some sites. Simpang Lima squares? of course there is no Simpang Lima square drawed on the maps. The main road in Semarang like Jalan Pahlawan? I couldnt found it here. But whatever is it, its enough to be a guidance to trace back several historical places in Semarang.

Want to see more, visit http://semarang.nl and it will brings u a lot of information abut the history of Semarang

Just waiting for my my journey report here fellas ;)

Tot Ziens!

Douwes Dekker was lived for a hundred year's?

Max Havelarr, a astirical book, criticized about the colonial government of Nederlandsh-Indie 
regulation over the indigenous people, written by Multatuli, a pseudonym name of Eduard Douwes Dekker
(source: Troopenmuseum)

Hello World!

Long time no see!

Well, as we know on this month, at 10^th of November, all of Indonesian citizen celebrate’s the National Patriotic Day, to memorize the heroic action of “Arek- arek Suroboyo” ( Surabaya people) who struggle against Allied force who helped the Dutch troops who want’s back to colonize Indonesia. As I know from my history book, at least a thousand of Arek-arek Suroboyo was killed.

Still discussing about a patriot, a week ago when I studied history in my class, I get confussed with the content. Why, because when I read about the rise of nation chapter, I found that a national heroes figure’s Douwes Dekker was live for 110 year’s! Wow…amazing wasn’t it? But my logic tell’s different, couldn’t Douwes Dekker live for 110 year’s? Or there’s a same figure which named Douwes Dekker? Let’s figure out!

The investigation begin’s from my another historical book which avaible in my house. I got nothing from there, then Bingo….!When I searched it on the Indonesian Encyclopedia book, I’ve found it. Apparantelly, the Douwes Dekker who composed the Max Havelaar book with Douwes Dekker who established Indische Partij on 1917. The full name of the Douwes Dekker which composed Max Havelaar is Eduard Douwes Dekker. But, the another one is Ernest Francois Douwes Dekker, later we known him as Dr.Setiabudi. Between them there’s still any blood relationship.

Ernest Francois Douwes Dekker,
or known as dr.Setiabudi
(source: Troopenmuseum)

The Eduard Douwes Dekker or Multatuli (latin: I’ve so much suffer’s) during his life is a resident on Kedu Residency, and officed on Purworejo  since 1848. Then he moved to Manado on 1856, and the last, he moved to Lebak, Banten. Over there he saw an unfairness policy from the Dutch government to the native villager, especially on it’s forced labor policy. It makes him to decided for retired from the government field, and go back to his homeland, Dutch. Then, he wrote Max Havelaar which tell’s about the Indonesian people who sufferer’s for colonization. Later, it makes the liberal side on Dutch parlementary proposed the etic politic to Indonesian people which concern on 3 important field, Education, Irrigation and Imigration.

Then the others "Douwes Dekker" was, Ernest Francois Douwes Dekker or Dr. Setiabudi who was born on Pasuruan, at October 8^th 1879. He's belongs to great grand son of Multatuli. He've become a soldier on British-Boer War on South Africe. As Dutch was lose from the war, Douwes Dekker become a prison-at-war, and shipped to Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Back to Indonesia and become a reporter. He wrote a lot of article’s about Indonesia independency. It make’s the Dutch government dislike to him. Later on 191, together with Dr.Cipto and Suwardi Suryaningrat, established the Indische Partij, the first political pary in Indonesia. The Dutch government infuriated, then sent them three to the prison. But later, Douwes Dekker sent to Suriname to prevented his political activity. After Indonesia gained their independency, Douwes Dekker back to Indonesia and changed his name become Dr.Setiabudi. He also actived on Indonesian political role as the National Ministry of Indonesia on 1947.

Well, tha’s the profile both of Douwes Dekker. So, my advice to the history book publisher, please wrote it’s figure name in full name so the student wouldn’t get confused when they learn history. ;)

The construction of Dam in Ciujung river, near Pamarajan, West Java.
The colonial government boost the number of dam built, after the etic
politic together with the immproving immigration and education sector.
(source: Troopenmuseum, circa 1915-1926)

The Rise of South Asian Nation

Hello World,

How about your Iedul Fitri vacation?

Is it great, don’t you?

Yeah, yeah…. every Moslem must be happy every Iedul Fitri are getting close. But now, the whole Moslem in the world must be happy cause, on this year, the first Moslem astronaut, Sheikh Muszaphar Shukor enters space. What a great events it is? Shukor had flew to space with the Russian Soyuz spacecraft. He is not alone, he’s flew to space with the ISS Expedition-16 commander, U.S. astronaut Peggy Whitson, and a Russian cosmonaut Yuri Malechenko. The spacecraft had been launched from the Russia’s Baikonur Cosmodrome in the Kazakh steppe on 5:22 p.m Moscow time. Shukor is the first Moslem to fly into space during the holy month of Ramadhan. (Did he doing fasting over there? He he he………..)

Shukor not only make his motherland, Malaysia become pride. He also give a inspiration to the others especially Southeast Asian nation about how hard we must to tried to reach our dream. I’ve read from The Jakarta Post that Shukor gained his opportunity to become an astronauts is not easy, he must had selected from 11.000 candidates, wow… that’s not such a small number don’t you?

Well, hopefully, there will be more Moslem astronauts who enters the space. Let’s we bringin’ back the Moslem advantegous in the past, where the brilliant Moslem are countable in scientific world.

But, outside all…I put my trust on the physic’s expert in Indonesia to become the next Shukor. Why ? Because on Indonesia, the physic’s expert almost every year’s gained an achievement on Internasional Physic’s Competition. So, could the Indonesian physic’s expert reach the space? Hopefully………Amien

Lawang Sewu, De Voormalig NIS Kantooren

The Office of  Nederlandsch-Indische Spoorweg Maatschappij (NIS) or known as Lawang Sewu as it appears on 1930 and a medallion with the logo of NIS, issued as the NIS 50th anniversary on 1913.
(Source: Leiden University Library (photos)| devrieze (medallion)) 

Lawang Sewu or literally translated as the thousand door, is a most famous colonial heritage building in Semarang. The reason behind the name was the massives amount of its leaf doors. Together with Gereja Blenduk (Koepelkerk), Lawang Sewu also became a landmark of Semarang, although its really struggled to bear its reputation as one’s of the most haunted place in Semarang since its been neglected for dozen of years. The spooky reputation also widely known after a TV Shows of Dunia Lain, a cult hit in Indonesian reality show about intangible world that has a special part of Uji Nyali or test of courage. Here in Lawang Sewu in 2006, consider as the most terrifying episodes since these intangible creatures was appeared in on screen! Then its started to encourage people to experienced the same things here. Creepy!

Lawang Sewu inner courtyard in 2007, currently the building was empty
and badly neglected after the last time its in active used was in 1996.  

Then of course it has reduced the historical values of the building, people were not interested to how its built, how the story behind, or anything related to the heritage but the ghost story. The historical fact behind Lawang Sewu for me is far more interesting than those creepy story that most of the time been overrated. The building was an headquarters of Nederlandsch Indische Spoorweg Maatschappij (NIS), the leading of railway company in Netherlands East Indie, present-day Indonesia. NIS also the first company that established railway connection in Netherlands East Indie that connected Semarang-Tanggung in 1867. The company then succesfully established railway connection in from Semarang-Solo-Yogyakarta, included its branch route to Ambarawa in 1873.In the following year the railway line developed rapidly. In 1893, built the Yogyakarta - Brosot route that serves the network of sugar factory in the south, as well as Yogyakarta - Ambarawa route through Magelang and Secang with its famous rackrailway. The last route was built from Gundih to Surabaya Pasar Turi railway line along 245 kilometers. The rapid growth of NIS's rail network, by itself is followed by the increase number of employees. Thus the NIS office in Samarang station, no longer adequate to serves the vast growth of its employes. Then its started to plans the freshly new building as its new headquarters.

A city tram of Semarang passing through the Bodjong Weg, present-day
Jalan Pemuda that located in the north of Lawang Sewu.
(source: Tropenmuseum)

Two Dutch architect was appointed to design this new NIS headquarters, they were Professor Jakob F. Klinkhamer and BJ Ouendag.  The design was a two story building with a bit traditionalism style influence, a style that really emerge in Dutch architecture sphere during that period.  The design also referring to the tropical architectural design which its surrounded by a front and back hallway to protect buildings from direct sunlight as well as the raindrop during the rain season which most of the time will be very intense in the tropical area. As the NIS is a railway company, Klinkhamer and Ouendag try to response it into their design by placing the connecting door in the same lines between the room that made its look like in the train couch.

Klinkhamer and Ouendag never came to Semarang to execute the plans, but they appointed an in-house architect D.W. Hinse to carry out the building progress. On 27 February 1904, the first stone was laid down and soon Hinse found out that the ground condition was not good enough for the structure. He proposed an soil improvements and hardly convince the NIS board to fulfill His demand since its quite costly. But Hinse prevailed to convince them, so He execute His ideas to dug the areas of the construction 4 meters  deep and filled with vulcanic sands from surround Merapi mountain, the most active vulcano in Java. Later, this was the reason of the strength of the building that could last for more than hundreds year without any significant structure damage after all this time.

beautiful stained glass decoration in the main hall,
made by J.L. Schouten from the studio "Prinsenhof"
in the city of Delft

During the construction period, around 300 workers are deployed every day. The materials was also brought in directly from the Europe, such as its roof-tile and glazure bricks that cames from Venlo, Netherlands and the granite was imported from granite quarries in the mountains of Fichtel, Bavaria, Germany. About 350 m3 of granite stone has been carefully cut in mining location according to the size in the picture, so that when arriving in Semarang its ready to installed without any adjustments was necessary. Also, its very beautiful stained glass decoration in the main hall, made by J.L. Schouten from the studio "Prinsenhof" in the city of Delft. On July 1, 1907, the NIS office was completed, and its inaugurated without a big ceremony, only a simple selamatan was carry out as its part of the Javanese tradition to start a something new. On the 1916, NIS built a new building in the back to accomodate the number of employers. But the building was more modest and simple compare to the first building since its already used the concrete structure. Its completed in 1918 and became the last building to be built in the Lawang Sewu complex.

Hello World !

Assalamualaikum all!

Hi hi hi....

You should know guys!
Cause, start from this day

Senin, 8 Oktober 2007......

Yogi Fajri a.k.a Mendho or DjamboeL

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