Candi Lama and its Bunch of Historic Building

The Y-junction in Candi Lama (Oud-Tjandi) in the intersection between Jalan dr. Wahidin (Tanah Putih Weg) and Jalan Sisingamangaraja (Kanarie Laan). Behind the reclame kiosk, its located the Hulp Post Kantoor building which until now still owned by PT. Pos Indonesia. (source: Tropenmuseum)

Around 1912, Major of Semarang, W. Th. De Vogel ask the architect K.P.C de Bazel who works in Amsterdam, Netherlands to made a plans for the Semarang city extension plans over the hilly area in its southern part, known as Candi neighborhood. This idea was based on the advice of one's of city council boards, Dr. H.F. Tillema, a pharmachist an enterpreneur who really concern on the hygiene problems. He stated that in Semarang city which consider as coastal city, its lower part were unhealthy. Its density and also the problems with the heat condition of Benedenstad, the plain part of the city which belongs to the city center combined with the high humidity, made its easily for the people suffers from heat fatigue. Thus, He advised several idea regarding the hygiene improvements project such as, sanitary improvements, tap water networks, and also the extension of the city into its hilly area in the south.   

The building of Heuvelschool, currently used as
Puskesmas Candi Lama. The photos taken in 2007.

In 1915, Directeur van Burgerlijke Openbare Werken (BOW), the Department of Civil Works asks Ir. Herman Thomas Karsten to designs the master plans to the new settlements area in this hilly area. The area then well known as New Candi, in Dutch known as Nieuw Tjandi or Candi Baru in Bahasa Indonesia, which still used until now.  Well, if these area given name as New Candi, so where’s the Candi Lama (Old Candi) located? Actualy, the area that in Dutch known as Oud Tjandi,  were a residence area that lies in the southern hilly part of Semarang, start from Tanah Putih, until Jangli area. The toponym of Candi which must be refers to temple were still a mistery until today. No one’s know for sure where the temples location that refers to this name, but there’s an ancient structure found in Candi Lama, in the shortcut way from Jangli to Karanganyar Gunung, nearby the Sendang, a natural water sources. Many peoples believed that this was the location of the temple that later became the toponym of this area.

Not so many discussion about Candi Lama neighborhood compares to Candi Baru neighborhood, which actualy it has a bunch of historical fact that for Me its also exciting. Once I met with Ron van Der Wal, whose His wife’s great grand-father, was the first headmaster of the first Heuvelschool (Hill School), the name was Mr. Goedhart. The Heuvelschool was still stand, and used as Puskesmas (smallest unit of people healthcare services provided by government) of Candi Lama. Across the Heuvelschool, was the location of Hotel Tjandi, a famous Hotel in Semarang that popular for its swimming pool. It was turns into the military compound after the indepence of Indonesia, and around 1990’s decades unfortunately its demolished. The house of Goedhart itself, was also interesting, since its later used as the Hulp Postkantoor, a post office branch that served the hilly parts of Semarang known as Heuvelstad. The buildings also still stand till today! Its even just renovated recently and maybe would be reused as another commercial function probably.

The only buildings that remains in Nederlandsch Indische Gas Maatschappij (NIGM) complex in Gang Schmalz (currently Jalan Singotoro Raya), Candi Lama. Some people said that behind this building, there was two large tank made of steel. Its probably part of the gas instalation in the past, but unfortunately its gone.

The family portrait in front of the house in Candi
Lama, taken around 1916-1920. This Tudor-style
house is still preserved, made it the only buildings
with Tudor-style remains in the neighborhood.
(source: Tropenmuseum) 

There’s a street in Candi Lama neighborhood known as Gang Semal, which actualy taken from the old names of this street, Gang Schmalz. Many of the residents surround it, or even Semarang people still called the street as Gang Semal, although oficialy the name is Jalan Singotoro Raya. There’s a lot of historical building surround here, like Sanatorium and the Nederlandsch Indische Gas Maatschappij (NIGM) complex. The NIGM complex, there’s a big possibilities that before there’s a gas power plant set up here. Before the electricity installation based on cable, they used the gas network fueled by coal to enlightened the street and house. The gas power used as electricity means in Semarang was mentioned in De Locomotief, the prominent newspaper based on Semarang that in February 2nd 1898, in Semarang succesfully set 15 gas instalations in order to fulfilled the need for street lighting.  The complex of NIGM itself only leaving one building remains. The building once turns into a famous café in Semarang, Ours Café where one’s of the city Jazz community, Jazzngisoringin established in 2009 through its routine agenda of organizing Jazz gigs in the small stages under the Beringin tree (latin: ficus benjamina) on its yard. Unfortunately, its closed in 2010 and left the building neglected until recently the owner which is now PT. Gas Negara made a little renovation. 

There’s much more old building that interesting to see in this neighborhood such as the building nearby the Y-junction of Jalan dr. Wahidin and Jalan Sisingamangaraja (before known as Kanarie Laan, since a lot of Kenari trees over here) which consider as the only building with Tudor style that remains in Candi Lama. Also the art-deco house that designed by Liem Bwan Tjie that situated near the junction of Jalan dr. Wahidin. The house with its steeping entrance for sure has a best view towards the Java Sea and the lower part of Semarang among the others building in the neighborhood. The Badjak Bron a natural water resources that once served pipeline water network in several area in South Semarang its also located in Candi Lama. The water sources nowadays still used by the people in Karanganyar Gunung neighborhood. Wish it always be preserved anyway.

N.V. Volkshuisvesting and the Story of Gemeente Kampoeng

Gemeente Kampoeng in Semarang.

The improvement of Kampung/ Kampoeng (residential Area), which inhabited mostly by the indigenous people by the lower class in town or city was one of the concern of the Gemeente (eng: City Municipalty) Semarang. The improvement having serious attention after the Hendrirk Frerk Tillema, the chemist who also having role as Gemeente Raad (eng: City council) criticized the condition of those kampong, which also brought much problems related to the public health issues, such as bad sanitation, inadequate latrines, and also flood. Then the programs so-called Kampoeng Verbetering (Kampoeng Improvements) were launched, and improved the several old kampongs in Semarang such as Pungkuran, Karangasem, Rejosari, Petelan, and so on. But then, Ir. Thomas Karsten, the notable architect at that time, inisiated to build the Gemeente Kampong. Its a housing complex, were established several house in the various type, divided based on economic ability of its residents. The idea were combined the kampong type residencies that were existed for a long time in Indonesia, which is always having a communal space, and also the modern housing related with the materials, running waters, sanitation, street lighting and sewage system. The idea then discussed in “Congres voor Volkshuisvesting” held in 15-17th of April 1922 with one’s of the decision is to ask the “Sociaal Technische Vereeniging” or the Board of Social Engineering to provide the improvement of housing complex in Semarang. Then on December 8th 1925, its established the N.V. Volkshuisvesting with the initial capital 2 million Gulden. 

 The remains of original house in Lempongsari built by N.V. Volkhuisvesting
identified as Type I. Nowadays people still called the original house as
“Rumah Guminte”, dated back in the old days these houses were built as the
programs initiated by Gemeente (eng: City Municipality) 

The first set consisted of 141 properties in Mlaten, comprising of 48 houses “type O.O.” with a rental value of 3 Gulden per month, 51 houses “type O” with a rental value of 4 Gulden per month, 18 “Type I” with a rental value of 6 until 14 Gulden per month, and the houses “Type I” but with its own private lavatory with a rental value 8.50 per months and some tavern. These homes were all completed in 1929 and were immediately rented, as well as the homes of 2nd complex, whose construction started in 1929 which was completed in early 1930 arrived. Then its spread into the others complex such as Sompok, Koendjaranweg (now Jalan Rambutan), Ambengan (Halmaheira), Kintelan, Lempongsari, Kalilangse, and the fancy house in Tjandi Baroe.

House in Koendjaran Weg, currently Jalan Taman Sompok. 

Relations between people in the housing complex and the surrounding older, unplanned kampongs intertwined. People oftenly hired people from the older kampong to do domestic chores, such as driver, servants and security. That interactions, then gone after the Japanese occupied Indonesia, in 1942. The cleanliness, hygiene and order had to be dropped, especialy in the parts that functioned as Interneringskamp (eng: internment camp), like Halmaheira and Sompok. These complexes, once the sites of modern humanity, became places of inhumanity. The kampongs were sealed off from neighbouring housing by a high bamboo fence or barbed wire. Even by January, 1944 Kamp Sompok-Lampersari was the biggest womens and childerns internment kamp in Indonesia, residenced with 7.870 people, 341 of them were deceased.

Social changes continued after Independence of Indonesia. Many of the new residents of these so-called Gemeente Kampoeng were those who works for the city municilpality (Kotapraja). After the 1958 the number of europeans who lived in these kampoeng decreased siginficantly, when Soekarno expelled all of the Dutch descendants as the result of political conflict between Jakarta and Den Haag.

Especialy in Lampersari had many newcomers because the military took over the houses from the Dutch.

Refrences:

Gedenkboek der Gemeente Semarang 1906-1931 

Cars, Conduits, and Kampongs: The Modernization of the Indonesian City, 1920-1960. 

The Combination of Javanese Pendopo and European Theatre Building called Sobokartti

The Gambang Semarang  Dance performance at Sobokartti, performance by Gambang Semarang Art Company on 2014.
(courtesy: Adityo Cahyo)

On Thursday, 10 December 2015, I was attended the discussion held by The Java Institute, a research group about Java Island as economy, ecology, social, natural resources and cultures entity, based in Catholic University (UNIKA) of Soegijapranata. The theme of the discussion is about Thomas Karsten, the prominent architect from the colonial period, delivered by Dr. Joost Cote, currently a academician in Monash University with a primary research interest in early twentieth century history of Indonesia. Its not my first time following his lectures, but that day, its just a small group of discussion, so its better than before.

Me and Dr. Joost Cote during the discussion, thanks Pak Tjahjono for taking
this photos.

Dr. Joost Cote, explained about the creation process of Volkstheater Sobokartti, as a people’s theatre, giving an alternatives space for the indigenous people of Semarang specifically, to enjoy the Javanese cultural performance. De Volkstheater Sobokartti, or now simply known as Sobokartti, is really unique because its combined the Javanese Pendopo design, a place to performing traditional dance with the European style theatre. Here, Karsten as a brilliant architect were combined it and this is were built in the situation where the economic condition in Semarang were growth well. A lot of new middle class people, a lot of residencial area were built and even the kampong itself were revitalized through the Kampoeng Verbetering programs, where the Gemeente (city council) providing the basic needs for the residencial area like drainage system, sanitation, and access to fresh water. Thus on that condition, its created people demand to developed their own culture, the Javanese culture. They conscious as the Javanese people, even in the harbor city like Semarang that actually less having strong cultural roots, its supposed to preserve their own culture. Commonly, the people thinks those people in Vorstenlanden area like Sultanate of Yogyakarta, Principality of Pakualam, Principality of Mangkunegara, and Sunanate of Surakarta having strong cultural roots, because its still in form of kingdom with all of those manners. 

Karsten (marked with x) during a visits of  Rabindranath
Tagore to Mangkunegara Palace. Beside Rabindranath
Tagore is Mangkunegara VII.
(source: Leiden University Library)

Thomas Karsten really concerns about Javanese culture. He even having really strong relationship with Mangkunegara VII, the ruler of Principality of Mangkunegara. Karsten designed the pendopo in the front gallery of Mangkunegara palace, that supposed to be the biggest Javanese Pendopo in Indonesia. Interestingly, according to Dr. Joost Cote, for Karsten all of the Javanese tradition developing in the Vorstenlanden is done, its already end. In Vorstenlanden they have the Keraton (Kingdom Palace), and the tradition only developing there, so Karsten think the Javanese civilization is at stake. So that’s why through the people in Semarang Kunstkring (the Semarang Art Society), with all of the fellow Javanese that having the same idea, the Sobokartti began to planned. In December 9th 1920, its began to created the Volks Vereeniging Sobokartti, a committee to built Volkstheater Sobokartti. The prominent figure behind it beside Karsten is  Mangkunagara VII and Dr. Radjiman, from Boedi Oetomo Organization. Even Karsten already designed its Volkstheater in 1919, but it take a long time before its officially inaugurated on 1930. The design of the building also different from the beginning due to lack of funds. 

But there’s an interesting story, while Pak Tjahjono Rahardjo, a lecturer from UNIKA stated that as He remember from his grandfather, at that time amongst the Javanese people, there’s a opinion only a walthy people could afford performance in Sobokarrti. Well, seems the idea of the inisiator isn’t applied well. Maybe because of its design, that combined the Javanese Pendopo and European Theatre, because none of partition in Javanese Pendopo, its open so that everybody could enjoy the performance. But the Sobokartti is different, its closed, it have a tribune, and also have a ticketing counter. Maybe because of that differences, people just don’t get used to it. Its even happens nowadays, Pak Tjahjono also a activist in Sobokartti, and every He and His fellow in Sobokartti creating something inside, less people coming, but its different when they held event outside, in the outer pendopo that still in form of Javanese Pendopo, more people coming. 

De Volkstheater Sobokartti, taken in 1993.
(source: PKMvR Heritage Research Consultacy) 

But for me, maybe Karsten is right. As a harbor city, Semarang people are used to be a economy-minded, everything has a price. So that’s why, even for this one, maybe Karsten wants to the artist get money from this, the performance has to be monetized! And its normal in the harbor city like Semarang when the people bit individualistic. But even the Javanese proverb have something related with this, Jer Basuki Mawa Bea, if its translated Jer Basuki (an achievement) –Mawa  (needs) –Bea (Cost/Sacrifice), see? ;) 

The Old Voyager

A photos from Leiden University Library archives depicted MS. Marnix van St. Aldegonde, a Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland (SMN) luxury liner with the heavies about 19.000 tons, servicing line between Amsterdam and Batavia. Later used as a troopship in the Central Naval Force of the allied forces during World War II. Tragically, She was torpedoed by German bombers in the Mediterranean on November 7, 1943 and sunk. | inzet: SMN lugage label

Entering Kota Lama from the west sides, from Jalan Pemuda, we'll welcomed by several iconic building lies along Jalan Mpu Tantular. One's of the building is Djakarta Lloyd building, that not so many people pay attention to this. Despite the activity is not as crowd as the building beside it, Bank Mandiri, the Djakarta Lloyd building in Kota Lama once become the office for the largest shipping company from Netherlands. Yap, Djakarta Lloyd building in Kota Lama once is a office for Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland (SMN). What we see today is the new building that designed by Thomas Karsten and accomplished in 1930. A luxurious building as the symbol of the glorious of the company, see the videos below from the film titled Zoo reizen wij naar Indie, Java-Bali 1938 that depicting the SMN office in Semarang. The SMN itself later nationalized by the government of Republic Indonesia, and their asset were taken over by several state company, just like in Kota Lama, its owned by Djakarta Lloyd.  

The story of NV Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland (SMN),  Amsterdam begin in 1870 while its started to operate a regular steam shipping service between Amsterdam and Batavia. SMN is one of the oldest and largest shipping companies in Netherlands. The SMN established to fulfilled the demand of sea transportation, which is increasing significantly from Asia to Europe after the opening of Suez Canaal in 1869.  

A ship from the SMN leaving  the passenger terminal
of port Tandjoengpriok, taken before 1952 (source: Tropenmuseum)

From 1870 to 1970, together with the Rotterdam Lloyd, millions tons of goods were delivered, especially from the Dutch East Indies. Also hundreds of thousands of planters, businessmen, soldiers, officials and adventurers with and their families moved to the Dutch East Indies as well as others place of Dutch colony. The passenger ships, such as MS Orange, Ms. Johan van Barneveld and Ms. Marnix van St. Aldegonde, were known for their luxury and comfort for that time. SMN ended their operation on January 20th, 1970, while its merded with three other companies to form the Nederlandsche Scheepvaart Unie (NSU). NSU later changed its name into Koninklijke Nedlloyd or simply known as Nedlloyd, until now.

Pasar Johar, the Traditional Market with Modern Structures

 Pasar Johar in 1938, from Djoernatan Weg (Jalan H.Agus Salim),  looks so clean and luxurious.  Far different from the current situation (Photos by: Troopenmuseum)

Market has an important role in the Economic sector of a city. Here could be calculated how the economic sector growth. The traditional market for me is the ideal place for the economic activity, because there was a nearly perfect economic competition models implemented here. Its not like in the supermarket, that the price is monopolized by the sellers, marginalizing the role of buyers as price takers. Well talking about Traditional market, in Semarang city there is a famous traditional market, Pasar Johar (pasar, eng: market), reputedly has been the largest in South East Asia in the past.

The history of Pasar Johar begin in 1860, when there is a market formed in the eastern side of the town square of Semarang (Aloon-Aloon Semarang) and its fenced by rows of johar (senna siamea) trees, Thus why this market called Pasar Johar. Considering the economic growth of Semarang city and also peoples demand of the sufficient market building, in 1933 its designed the compact, modern and large market by Ir. Thomas Karsten, where the shaped is adopted the shaped of Pasar Jatingaleh building.  This new building unites the role of five existed market at that time there was pasar johar, pasar pedamaran, pasar beteng, pasar jurnatan and  pasar pekojan.

Dutch soldier possed in front of Pasar Johar on 1945
(Photos by: H.J.Lankhuisen)

Its situated in the eastern edge of Aloon-aloon Semarang, maybe if we imagined its with nowadays situation its just like the shooping centre surround Simpang Lima Square, the shooping centre near the centre of crowd. Unfortunately, the aloon-aloon Semarang now is already changed into Yaik Permai shooping centre building. Back to the Pasar Johar, ithe main characteristic of this building is its six metres high foundation shaped like a mushroom, and the flat roof with elevation in some place as ventilation, makes the temperature cool even its have no air conditioner. This building fulfilling all the site that planned with no yard or open air place, makes its comply with Karstens purpose to efficencing the available land.

In 1960's, the north sides of building, meet  a change, and its added a wall around the fence, purposed to adding new room. This caused its appearance doesnt match with the past architecture and ventilation substandard. We can see the addition of structures seems like being forced, without considering the esthetic value of the building itself. We still could see it on the 2nd floor above the entrance Pasar Johar. What a pity!