Renew Old Memories in Purworejo (part 1)

Sop Senerek, the Javanese version of Dutch cuisines, the Bruine Bonen Soep. Typically Kedu Residents cuisines who consist of Temanggung, Magelang, Purworejo, Kebumen and surround it.

Hello World!

This week were getting so awesome for me! Yap, just because of its really-really full of adventures. Since my friends Wisnu Pratama got his Kuliah Kerja Nyata (kinda form of community service activities by students in the rural areas) or simply called as KKN  that located in Salaman, Magelang and its near my birthplace city, Purworejo, so I quickly made an appointment with Him in order to accompany me visiting this city. I really excited to go there now, due to I must have "me-time" over there, not like my previous experience. Have my own vehicles, have my own destination to renew my Old memories that already left there for 19 years, so here we go!

“Deze weg is daargesteld onder het bestuur
der Residen van Bagelen Ionkh JGOS Don Schmidt
Auf Altenstadt En R De Filletaz Bousqet En
onder mederwerking van Raden Adipati Tjokronegoro
Regent van Purworejo In de jaren 1845-1850”.

Start at 10.30 am, the bus arrived at Magelang and Wisnu picked me up, then we got our breakfast with the famous Magelang culinary, Sop Senerek Karesidenan, the stall is near the former office of Karesidenan (eng: Resident) Kedu. Its named after senerek, the red beans. Serving in the forms of soup, containing meat/offal, potato, carrot, spinach and of course, rice. This is the example of the acculturations between the local culture and the europeans. Its looks like typical Dutch cuisine, bruine bonen soep, a soup who also named after the bruine bonen, the brown beans. Hmm...yummy, start from this breakfast, its already renew my old memories, because of this Sop Senerek were typically a cuisine in the Kedu region, who consist of Magelang and another cities in the south of this city, also Purworejo.

On 11.00 am, our bikes already down to the Magelang-Purworejo main highway. I love every part of it, because of its offering the enormous scenery, a combination of valley, mountainous and rural area. Then we stoped in Tugu Bener, a monument to commemorate the construction of the highway between Magelang and Purworejo which took a place between 1845-1850. This monument condition seems like never been restored nor preserved. I guess, not so many people knows about the story behind this monument. Taking several photos and the journey continued. After 45 minutes of riding, we arrived in the city of Purworejo.

"Indlansche en Afrikaansche Troepen"
a picture depicting the native (left) and
African (right) mercenaries om KNIL
(source: wikipedia.org)

Not so many changes happend in this city. Even in my memories, several building and several places, just like in their condition during my childhood. This small cities, is rich with the history, just like my stories before here, at least i could mention two of the things that people here must be proud of their city, there's the biggest Aloon-aloon and Bedug in central java is located. here 

Here in Purworejo, once there's a kampoong that populated by african descendants, mainly from Elmina, Ghana that recruited as mercenaries for the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army or simply known as KNIL. This people so-called Zwarte Hollanders, the Black Dutchmen, the Javanese recognize them as Londo Ireng literally also means Black Dutchmen. Between 1831 and 1872, over three thousand Africans were recruited, this recruitment was in fact an emergency measure, as the Dutch army lost thousands of European soldiers and a much larger number of "native" soldiers in the Java War against Pangeran Diponegoro between 1825-1830. Following the independence of Indonesia, many of this african descendants flew back to Netherlands or to Africa, few of them choose to stay in Indonesia, one of their settlements were in Purworejo. 

The street inside the Kampoong even named as Gang African (eng: African Alley) to commemorate this. Located near RSUD Purworejo (city central hospital), here still a lot of houses typically 30-40's tropica architectures could be founded. But now, you couldnt find any Zwarte Hollanders anymore here. I found one's of the residents and said the last remains of this was already passed away in 2008. She only have one child, still looks alike an afro's people, but unfortunatelly, he's suffering for mental disorder even frequently He stay until fall asleep in Kerkhof (Dutch Graveyard) Purworejo, for unknown reason. We try to find Him in Kerkhof but found nothing. 

An old Gardu Listrik/ Tranformator Huis in front of
Gang African. inzet: the noticemen in Three Languages. 

Uniquely, near the Gang African, We met the Tranformator Huis (eng: Transformator House) or here in we call it as Gardu Listrik, that still in complete condition. Here in Purworejo, we could find a noticemen in three languages, Dutch, Indonesian and Javanese to prevent the people from the electricity danger. This noticemen made of Tin and you couldnt find any of these in Semarang, because it must be already taken by the collectors. I wish this noticemen will always there, please God save them from both the collectors and vandalist ;) 

(To be Continued)

HYGEIA, "De Groote" Mineral Water from Semarang

Inside the Hygeia Factory, still could be seen in the background the stained glass window pattern, now was entirely dissapeared. In the top-right corner were the trademarks of Hygeia. (source: tropenmuseum)

If we take a walk to the fish market in Jurnatan, nearly end on the alley we would found an old building which abandoned with an inscription adorned on the walls, PABERIK HYGEIA. I believe, not so many people know, this is a factory of highly-innovative product that is very useful for the development of Indonesia in the scope of both chemistry and healthcare. Long time ago before Mr. Tirto Utomo with his bottled-water products, which now dominate the market developed in 1974, in Semarang, its built the factory of Hygeia, with their products is soda-water and mineral water. This company were developed by H F Tillema, one's of the great innovators during the colonial period.

The current condition of Hygeia Factory in Jurnatan now its used as the
cooking oil warehouse. The building were badly abandoned. 

Born as Hendrik Freerk Tillema, he spent his chilhood in Echten, a village in the Friesland, Netherlands. He was born July 5, 1870. his father, Sikke Tillema is a school principal. When Hendrik was seven years old his mother died. In 1896 at the age of 25 he went to the East Indies and tried his lucky in the city of Semarang. In Semarang, he worked in Samarangsche Apotheek, owned by R. Klaasesz en Co. According to the contract, he received a salary of 200 guilders monthly for the first year. In 1899 he was able to buy the company. he retains the name Klaasesz en Co.. In the age of barely 30, he became the sole owner and leader in the company.

Pharmacist jobs, such as weighing and preparing chemicals substance was his daily activity, thus once he got so bored about his job. In his first year as a boss, he was trying to find something new. When he read an articles on Het Pharmaceutisch Weekblad, he found that millions of soda bottles imported into Java island annualy. He got an idea,  if he is able to sell a hundred thousand bottles of soda, he'll gained such significant revenue.

Then it start, in a few years Samarangsche-Apotheek had an subsidiaries to made a bottled-water then its developed into a hypermodern soda factory. Tillema being so strict related to the hygiene thingy. He knows that pure drinking water is very important for health. At first, he failed to mixed the oxygen with the pure water until he remembered the lessons during his high school about the laws of nature, "Salt could dissolved quickly in the warm water while the gas in the cold water". Then he realized it, he brings tons of ice cubes but then he found that it was too expensive. Finally, he wrap the problems with ordered tons of water with the temperature of 5 degrees Celsius from the ice factory. Its gained success and soon his soda factory growth significantly.

Dr. H F Tillema, circa 1935 (source:KITLV)

In 1901 he built the first factory in Semarang where his workers purify and fill the water into the bottles on the conveyor belt, a most modern system on that time. People called his product as a blank water, and this have an attracted etiquette in the bottle, that is a picture of a black cat with a tail that waved leapfrog letters HYGEIA! The new brand for the Tillema bottled-waters. Hygeia (or actually Hygieia) is the daughter of Asklepios, the Greek god of health protection that now become the brand of the Tillema bottled-waters.

In 1901 he succeeded to sell 500.000 bottles of Hygeia. Also, in early of December 1901, he married Anna Sophia Weehuizen, a 24-year-old teacher. Anna was born and growth in Java, from a family with ten children. His father died at a young age. However, as her mother suggest her, he became one of the girls who continue her education until high school grade. Later, after marriage she became an advisor for the Hygeia marketing and publication. Ten months after their marriage, Anna gave birth to her first child. Two years later the second child was born. Tillema was loved to be circled by his family, so that he took his wife's family members to work in his company.

The Hygeia Ads, here its started with
the words De Groote mineralwater
fabriek te Semarang is wel de Hygeia
fabriek (eng: De Groote mineral factory
in Semarang is the Hygeia factory).
(source: OASE documentation)

While the Coca-Cola company in the early of 20th century have a good advertising patterns, Tillema also used the same way by adopting what the Coca-Cola done. He shared an ashtrays with Hygeia brand printed on it.. In the potential intersection in Semarang, he hung a billboard that interested the peoples to bought his botled-water, Hygeia. The photos of the streets where he placed the billboard itself were printed into postcard and shared freely with the phrase on the postcard, "Hygeia Lemonade is incredible!". When the Gementee (eng: town council) asked him to revoke all of his billboard, he switch the publicity  with using balloon reads Hygeia, that hovered in the sky of Semarang.

In the 20th century, the photography starts to developed, almost everybody pay an interest on it, likewise  Tillema. He made an album about several photos of Semarang scenery and on the backside of the book he put Hygeia brand, also the price list of his products. He spent 50.000 Guilders for advertisement annualy and soon he will enjoyed the results. Hygeia product both the carbonated lemonade drinks and the mineral water were very popular throughout the East-Indies. At that time the price of the product is 25 Guilders, and six empty bottles, can be exchanged for a full six bottles for only 75 Guilders. 

On 1910, Tillema became one's of Het Gemeenteraad (eng: City Council) of Semarang. Because of his services, Het Gemeenteraad van Semarang perpetuate the name Tillema on a park in the Candi Baru region. The park who situated near the official house of De Javasche Bank agent and in front of Ereveld Candi were named Tillema Plein or Tillema Park. Currently we recognize the park as Gajahmungkur Park, because of its situated in Gajahmungkur regency.

source: http://sunjayadi.com/pengusaha-perintis-ajer-belanda.html

Geef Mij Maar Nasi Goreng, an Homesick Song

Mornin! Still morning and the only one that we could do first is taking breakfast right? The popular breakfast menu for Indonesian people is Nasi Goreng (Fried Rice), and its become likely a uniqueness about the breakfast practice, even its inspired Dutch-Indo Artist, Louisa Johanna Theodora "Wieteke" van Dort (born in Surabaya, May, 16th 1943) to compossed a song titled Geef Mij Maar Nasi Goreng (Just give me a Nasi Goreng). I know this song from the talent show in the Television, a cuple years ago, when one of the contestant performed its song. I’ve got very surprised, its so unique song for me, because its dutch song but contains bahasa(Indonesian language) also.

Wieteke van Dort ( source: wikipedia.org)

Following the high tension between Indonesia and Netherlands in the 1957, due to West Papua conflict and the government spread the anti-western sentiments, Wieteke and his family, flee to Netherlands, forced to left her home in Indonesia and started a new life there. In Netherlands she got stressed with the climate condition and culinary in Netherlands, thus she wrote this Geef Mij Maar Nasi Goreng song, to express her homesickness with Indonesia. And, this is the song and the lyrics of Geef Mij Maar Nasi Goreng itself,

Toen wij repatrieerden uit de gordel van smaragd

( when we’re arrive from Indonesia)

Dat Nederland zo koud was hadden wij toch nooit gedacht

( we never know if Hollands is so cold)

Maar 't ergste was 't eten. Nog erger dan op reis

( the worse one’s is its meal, even worst than we got in the trip )

Aardapp'len, vlees en groenten en suiker op de rijst

( pottato, meat and vegetables and rice with sugar)

refrain :

Geef mij maar nasi goreng met een gebakken ei

( just give me a fried rice with an omelette)

Wat sambal en wat kroepoek en een goed glas bier erbij

( with a sambal(special Indonesian sauce) and krupuk (Indonesian chips) and a glass of beer)

Geef mij maar nasi goreng met een gebakken ei

( just give me a fried rice with an omelette)

Wat sambal en wat kroepoek en een goed glas bier erbij

( with a sambal and krupuk and a glass of beer)

Geen lontong, sate babi, en niets smaakt hier pedis

( there’s no lontong(rice cake), pork satay, there’s no pedis/pedas(spicy) taste)

Geen trassi, sroendeng, bandeng en geen tahoe petis

( there’s no trassi(dried shrimp paste) , srundeng (fried coconut grater), bandeng (milkfish), and tahu petis(fried tofu with petis, an extract shrimp paste))

Kwee lapis, onde-onde, geen ketella of ba-pao

( kue lapis (lapis cake), onde-onde (ball shaped cake with sesame seeds), there’s no cassava or bakpau(chinesse bun))

Geen ketan, geen goela-djawa, daarom ja, ik zeg nou

(there’s no sticky rice, there’s no Javanese sugar, so I said: )

(back to refrain)

Ik ben nou wel gewend, ja aan die boerenkool met worst

(but now I’ve been adapted with cabbage and snaps)

Aan hutspot, pake klapperstuk, aan mellek voor de dorst

( hutspot, with a coconut grater and milk)

Aan stamppot met andijwie, aan spruitjes, erwtensoep

( stamppot with an andijwie vegetables, spruitjes, erwtens sup )

Maar 't lekkerst toch is rijst, ja en daarom steeds ik roep

( whatever it is, the rice is the best one. So I always said: )

(back to refrain)

The Sarsaparilla Lemonade

Hello World!

Before it I'm gonna say, Gong Xi Fat Choi .. for those who celebrate Chinese New Year. Well, on friday, my family and I took a visit to Semawis Market, a night market that situated on Chinese quarter, in the cetral Semarang. Various kinds of Chinese souvenirs are available, and also pork-based foods definitely! Hahaha ... absolutely i cant taste it. I decided to taste the tofu soup to m dinner.

My visit to the market Semawis this time, make me find something, maybe not new for me because I have known for a long time, but I've just never even seen the original shape and taste it. Yap, it was a bottle of lemonade drink called sarsaparilla, which is popular in the 1950's until the 1970's, when the coca-cola started entering the Indonesian market. Sarsaparilla is a type of vitaceae which, is derived from Latin America . If we drink, at first glance is similar to root beer. However, it has unique characteristics, a very strong mint.

This drink is unique, especially for my family, since the lemonade saparilla has enjoyed more than 3 generations, starting from my grandfather, father, and now myself finally start to like this drink, hehe. However, to find it is not easy, as well as I know this beverage just from my father's story, only now I can found it. For those who want to try, please come to Gang Warung(Warung Alley)and find the pempek seller. There available lemonade Saparilla and the price is quite affordable. Enjoy it :)

NB. For u were interested to buy this drink, Please call (+628995910946) or email {info yogifajri91@gmail .com} , we offers u a package for 5 bottle of sarsaparila with price Rp 80.000,- /10$ (excluding shipping fee) for those who outside Indonesia, we'll send it through DHL with additional shipping fee based on the destination of course, enjoy :)