Jatingaleh, The Waterloo van Java

The Waterloo Plein, now known as Lapangan Banteng in Jakarta. Its named after the White Monument with The Lion Statue on the top of it to commemorate the Prince of Orange (later  reigning as Willam II of Netherlands) who take a part on Waterloo Battle in 1815. The monument then torned down during the Japanese occupation.
(source:Leiden University Library)

The British Troops invaded the Dutch Indies on March, 1811 from India as a part of Napoleonic War. The Netherlands had been controlled by France for several years and was already at war with Britain. Thus, Dutch Indies, now is under the French rules and also became the enemy of the Britons. If in Europe its well known the Waterloo as the last battle of the French against the Coalition Army, ending the Napoleonic War in Europe, here in Semarang, actually there’s a Jatingaleh Battle, the last major battle before the Dutch Indies officialy all into the British hands.

The tombstone of Liutenant-Colonel William
Campbell, of His Britannic Majesty’s
78th Regiment in All-Saint Anglican Church
Jakarta. Campbell died on August 28th 1811
during the Siege of Meester Cornelis.

After the failure to repeled the British attack at Meester Cornelis (nowadays Jatinegara, Jakarta), General Jansens and His troops were escaping to Semarang. Semarang at that time is already became the principal central station of the Java Island, belongs as a large town, with a considerable European population. It is defended by a stone parapet and rampart, with bastions, and a wet ditch, but only calculated for defence against a native power. Here in Semarang, Jansens had collected a considerable force, principally from the native prince. Among whoms, were Prince Prang Wedono (Mangkunegara II) who have a strength 1500 men well trained army called Legion Mangkoenegaran. This is the first regular army in western style in owns by native kingdoms, who established in 1808 and its likely inspired by French Grande Armee.

The British troops chasing the Jansens retreat to Semarang, led by Captain Maxwell, this “Red Coats” army were sailed to Semarang on September 10th 1811. On th September 13th the British troops, now under the command of Colonel Gibbs, landed at Semarang, but then realized that the French Troops is already abandoned the city. The Jansens were made a last attempt to repels the British attack in the hilly and difficult terrain in south of Semarang, Gombel Hill. The Jansens has choosed the battlefield were He can takes the advantages of this hilly terrain and the flanks of the position were protected by the extreme difficulty of the approach, and could not be turned in any other way than by a road of many miles through an intricate country. The road toward Gombel  itself  which is part of the main road to Solo, were barried with many chevaux de frise, a medieval defensive anti-cavalry measure consisting of a portable frame (sometimes just a simple log) covered with many projecting long iron or wooden spikes or spears. Jansens also prepared thirty pieces of cannon, regularly placed on platform. Almost impossible the British troops could beat them in such this condition, but on the other hands, a lots of the French army under Jansens were tiresome of the battle. Many of the army were actually the Dutch army that due to their country were occupied by the French, so now they served into the French Army. For them its not make sense to fights to the death against the British Army superiority, because of actually they were not fights for their homelands, but for their country occupants, the French.   

An aerial photos from Leiden University Library archives depicted the Djatingaleh KNIL kampement (now used as military facilities of Batalion ARHANUDSE, an Air Defence Artillery Department ) in 1930-1932. Comparing with the sketch of enemy position in the William Thorns books titled Conquest of Java, the X sign above is the position of French Troops in Gombel Hill, and the X below is the position of Jatingaleh valley (on the sketch is spelled as Jatty Nallee). Now the valley is built a highway that became a part of Semarang Toll Road . 

September 16th 1811, at two o’clock in the afternoon, Colonel Gibbs moved their troops to attacking the French position in Jatingaleh. About 1200 firelock (muzzle-loading firearm) and six guns were prepared for this. The Colonel halted in fornt of the position before the dawn, in order to reconnoitre, which was essentially necessary previous to an assault, as no information,  on which any reliance was to be placed, could be obtained at Semarang. A detachment with two guns, was sent to occupy a hill, which appeared to overlook the left of the enemy line. The remaining guns were brought to throw shot at a great elevation accros the vallet into the French Troops position. Soon as the guns were firing at the enemy position, Colonel Gibbs rushed accross the valley and up to the main road till they nearly reached the summit of the hill. They halted and allow the main body to advance. The enemy was surprised, they even didnt open fire till the British Troops under shelter.The British Troops the crossing the Valley of Jatingaleh, Colonel Gibbs ordering general advance on the enemy position. 

British Redcoat uniforms,
by Cpt. R.H.Raymond Smythies, 1894

The French Troops now distracted their collumns, leaving their guns behind and retreating in all directions. Its all proved that the discipline and the morality of the French Troops in the lowest level during the whole battle in Java. Comparing to the Siege of Meester Cornelis that in total British Troops lost 156 of his men , 788 wounded and 16 missing in August 27th 1811, this battle was nothing. Some sources account that only the Legion Mangkoenegaran maintain their disciplines, but soon its also crushed by the Red Coats. Jansens fleed to the south, to Fort of Salatiga and finding himself totally deserted by His men. He sent the same night a request to the British Troops for a cessations of arms and an offer to treat for a capitulation. The request were sent to the Liutenant General Sir Samuel Auchmuty, that  saw this is the chance for the British Troops to shortened the conquest of Java, even the British Army still preparing to taken the city of Surabaya, another major harbour city in Java. The capitulation finaly taken place at Tuntang, a small city in the west of Salatiga on September 18th 1811. After that, the Dutch Indies, now is officialy under the "Union Jack", and on October 11th 1811, the Lord Minto, the Governor General of India appointed Sir Stamford Raffles as the Governor General of Java.  

Source: The Conquest of Java by William Thorns

Semarang Weeskamer, Served The Cities for Almost Hundred of Year

Semarang Wees- en Boedelkamer buildings in 1910. (source: Leiden University Library)

It was institution named Wees- en Boedelkamers, means the board in charge of orphans and property in trust. Nowadays, we known this institution changed the name into Lembaga Balai Harta Peninggalan, in Semarang, located in Jalan Hanoman 25. This institution is under the Ministry of Law and Human Rights, and one’s of the oldest institution that still running its role nowadays. Wess en Boedelkamer or also known as Weeskamer is established during the period of Vereenigde Oost Indische Compagnie (VOC), in the 17th century.  At that times, there is needs for the population, especially among the Dutch people, to takes care of their wealth that about inheritable to their heirs, either here in Dutch Indies, or in Netherlands, for the orphaned childern, and so on.Thus they formed the Wesskamer institution on October 1st, 1624, in Jakarta under the rule of Pieter de Carpentier as the Governor-General of Dutch Indies.

Charles Ferdinand Pahud, Governor General
of  Dutch Indies 1856-1861.

Here in Semarang, the Weeskamer is established in May 17th 1763. Through the Weeskamer, the wealth of every citizens in a city is recorded, as well about their private life, likely a civil administration role at this time. Yap, Dutch people having a good reputation in about these administratie thingy. Here, in the Weeskamer of Semarang, there’s a story about Daniel Abraham Ferdinand Pahud, that became the Head of this institutions in the early of 19th century. His sons, Charles Ferdinand Pahud later became Governor-General of Dutch Indies from  1856-1861. Under His rules in Dutch Indies, the slavery were abolished in 1860.

But where’s the location of the Weeskamer buildings in Semarang? Just like nowadays, the institution is under the Ministry of Law and Human Rights, at that time the Weeskamer commonly situated near the Courts facilities. Here in Semarang, the Weeskamer is located next to the Centraal Gevangenis, the major prison in Semarang, in Jurnatan. Unfortunately, there’s no proof anymore about this building. The building has long time ago demolished, just like my post here before, that Jurnatan, is one’s of the biggest loss in Semarang, related to the Historical sites. Above the sites now is turned into the busy business district. 

Komplek Pertokoan Jurnatan, one's of the busiest business district in Semarang, built above the sites of demolished Weeskamer of Semarang and also the Centraal Gevangenis of Semarang.

Geo Wehry & Co. Building in Semarang and A Neglected Tombstone in Bandung

Geo Wehry & Co. building (with the minaret and utility pole) as seen from
Societeitsbrug or known as Jembatan Berok in 1925
(source: Leiden University Library)  

Learning history sometimes looks like solving the puzzle.  It has the whole record of the past and the big picture of history is made only from small, seemingly insignificant pieces. but then when we combined it all together, we can see that it’s something important, even its shaped our understanding of the present or something. Couple days ago with my old friends from Senior High School, I went to the pool (billiard hall) in Kota Lama. Its belongs to the one’s of the new hangout place in the middle of the development of Kota Lama in the recent years, and this kind of place always attract me to pay a visit. I want to know how its look like after the renovation and also its convertion of function.

This place, that named as Kota Lama Billyard, using the former office of one’s of the greatest multinational company in Dutch Indies (present days Indonesia) during the Colonial Period, Geo Wehry & Co. Its belongs to the Top Big Five company at time together with Lindeteves Stokvis, Netherlands Handel Maatschappij (NHM), Borsumij, Jacobson Van Den Berg and Internationale Crediet-en Handels-Vereeniging Rotterdam (Internatio). Geo Wehry & Co. originated in 1862 at Batavia (nowadays Jakarta). By the end of the century, it had branches at Surabaya, Cirebon and Semarang. The company was particularly active in agricultural estates and the export of agricultural product like tobacco, coffee and tea, with the famous product of it, its Goalparra Tea. During the twenties it began to participate in brewery industries, with the Tjap Koentji as the famous brands of it. According to Indische Literaire Wandelingen sites, the building is designed by D.W Hinse.

Inside the building, now turns into pool (Billyard Hall)

D. W. Hinse J.Hzn. is a Dutch architect that coming to Semarang firstly in 1902 to preparing  the construction of Nederlandsch Indische Spoorwed Maatschappij Hoofdkantoor, or well known as Lawang Sewu. Lawang Sewu is designed by Prof. Jacob F. Klinkhamer in Delft and Mr. B. J. Ouëndag, architect in Amsterdam, but then for the construction the D.W. Hinse is commissioned to became in-house architect with the plans of the building, to commence and lead the work. Its explained in Het Administratiegebouw der Nederlandsch-Indische Spoorweg-Maatschappij te Semarang, Nederlandsch-Indië Oud en Nieuw, Volume 1 Number 1, May 1916. translated by Ir. Tjahjono Rahardjo. 

The D.W. Hinse wife's tombstone in Ci Guriang
springs in Bandung.

Its interesting! So its seems like D.W. Hinse after His task is done in 1907 when the Lawang Sewu construction is accomplished and officialy inaugurated, He still spent His life in Semarang. But another interesting story is about His wife. Well, I tried to to know more about this person D.W. Hinse but it tooks me to the site of the fellow heritage preservation activist in Bandung, Paman Ridwan (See His sites here), that there’s a neglected tombstone in the natural springs in Bandung that belongs to the D.W. Hinse wife! In the tombstone is written as follow,

ELISABETH ADRIANA HINSE-RIEMAN

GEB. AMSTERDAM

9 MAART 1859

OVERL. BANDOENG

13 JANUARI 1903

In His sites, Paman Ridwan also written if He then found an obituary in Het Nieuws van de Dag – De Kleine Courant, stated the Elisabeth Adriana Hinse-Reiman died the January 14th in Bandung, from Her husband D.W. Hinse, in Tjandi Semarang. Well another pieces of mistery, D.W. Hinse also lived in Tjandi like Thomas Karsten, a notable Dutch architect. The tombstone now laid in the natural spring of Ci Guriang, and used as the washboard, sounds strange eh? The area once is a kerkhof but then its demolished to built a sport complex, GOR Pajajaran. 

Where is The Exact Place of De Locomotief Office?

De Locomotief office that situated in Hoogendorpstraat 20-22 just like its written in its headlines (see the inzet). Hoogendorpstraat currently became Jalan Kepodang, and this photos is taken on 2007, long before the 2nd floor part is collapsed in early of 2015.

De Locomotief was the first newspaper published in Semarang. It was established in the middle of 19th century and led by Pieter Brooshooft, an ethical political activist. The daily was originally named Semarangsch Nieuws en Advertentieblad. In 1863 it was renamed De Locomotief, after the passage of the first train in Semarang. The paper was closed, but in 1947 De Locomotief was re-opened again. According to Rukardi Achmadi, a notable Semarang historian In 1957 due to the Indonesian confrontation with the Dutch related to the Papua Barat (eng:West Guinea) issue , the newspaper was closed and the building was taken over by Tempo Media Group, and there they runs the newspaper named Suluh Marhaen until its banned by the government under Soeharto regime on 1966 due to its political affiliations. 

De Locomotief office condition, shortly after I got information about the exact
place of this from Indische Literarire Wandelingen but its already in ruins.

Trace back De Locomotief office, Senarai Bangunan dan Kawasan Pusaka Kota Semarang (List of the Heritage Building and Area in Semarang) issued in 2006 stated that the building currently used as Bank Mandiri KCP Kepodang. Its a national bank branch that situated in the crossroad between Jalan Kepodang and Jalan Suari. Then in wikipedia.org, also stated that place is supposed to be the location of De Locomotief Hoofdredactie. But if we check through the photo’s archive  of KITLV and Tropenmuseum either. The building that currently used as Bank Mandiri KCP Kepodang isn’t the De Locomotief daily office. Its a Nederlandsch Indische Handelsbank, a Dutch private bank that established in 1863 and nationalized by the Indonesian government in 1957 and renamed into Bank Umum Negara (BUNEG). BUNEG then changed its name into Bank Bumi Daya and following the major restructurisation of the national banking company in 1999, Bank Bumi Daya mergered with three others bank, Bank EXIM, BAPINDO and Bank Dagang Negara formed Bank Mandiri. Thus the asset now belongs to Bank Mandiri. So its became clear that building isn’t De Locomotief office. 

Inside the ruins of De Locomotief building. On the
opposite is the former office of one's of the largest
export-import company during the colonial period
Geo Wehry & Co.

In the headlines of De Locomotief its written that the address of the office is in Hoogendorpstraat 20-22, Semarang. Currently the place that used to be named as Hoodendorpstraat is changed into Jalan Kepodang, but the problem is, is it the numbering of the building still following the numbering during the colonial period? Then in June 2015, I got the answer!  A website named “Indische Literaire Wandelingen” doing the documentation of several building in Kota Lama (eng: old town) Semarang. Its seems like they do it in the 90’s decade (seen from the photos and comparation of the condition of the building), and there, they written about De Locomotief office is located in Jalan Kepodang 20-22, so the numbering  is just the same as during the colonial period.

Unfortunately, when I got there to make a documentation, the 2nd floor part is already collapsed! What a pity! The owner took the teak wood of the 2nd floor, because of some of its got stolen before. Its became a fatality due to the construction of the building still in the old ways, that floor is also use a function as wall holder. Then during our wet season, the wall getting fragiled and collapsed. Only the 1st floor is remained, like a ruins in World War 2 film scene.  Luckily i have a documentation about this building in 2007, but I take it from a bit far distance. At least, I can show to the people how’s look like, De Locomotief  office. A place where ethical politics figure like Conrad Theodore van Deventer struggled for the better condition of the indigenous people of Indonesia through the newspaper. Without De Locomotief activities, I simply cant imagined about how the history of Indonesia would written. Surely its a really important building as a part of our struggle for independence, but now its forgotten and slowly perished.

NB. This article firstly published on November 9th 2012, but then due to these new fact about the exact position of the De Locomotief office, so I completely change the old version of the articles. 

This Antique House Belongs to Thio Thiam Tjong

The house of Thio Thiam Tjong on Jalan Gajahmungkur Selatan 11, Semarang. This antique indisch house were designed by Thomas Kaarsten, the famous architect during the colonial period. (source: Mas Khrisna)

Have a friends that works in architectural agencies which is have specialized in preservation old building, were so helpful for me in order to complete my articles about the history mainly in related with Semarang. Its my friend named Yohanes Khrisna H P, that asked me about "who is actually Thio Thiam Tjong? How come this man afford to hired Thomas Kaarsten, the famous architect at that time in order to design His house?". I was so long time ago known this house but just now, by the info from Mas Khrisna actually, know that this house once belongs to Tho Thiam Tjong, and its designed by Kaarsten. Then I found who is Thio Thiam Tjong as its written in "Prominent Indonesian Chinese: Biographical Sketches" by Leo Suryadinata. 

The preparatory commission and the welcoming commission of Chung
Hwa Hui at the assembly table, 1927. Thio is in the left most position
on that picture. (source: Chinese Indonesian Heritage Center)

Thio Thiam Tjong was born on April 4th 1896 form the wealthy peranakan (native-chinese) family. His father was the owner of the export-import firm in Semarang, Thio Siong Liong Maatschappij, which Thio Thiam Tjong inherited and expanded after his father had retired. Thio was Dutch-educated, first in Semarang and later in Delft Technical College, Netherlands. Before graduating, he returned to Java, presumably to take over His fathers business, He became very active in the local chinese community named Chung Hwa Hui (CHH). Founded in 1928 CHH is a political organization that carried the ethnic Chinese Nationalism oriented to Dutch East Indies authorities, this was contrary to Tiong Hoa Hwe Kwan (THHK). This movement is getting support from so many peranakan intellectuals. CHH take a cooperation sides against the Colonial authorities and actively participate in local political institutions included in the Volksraad (People's Council). Here, Thio was elected to its central board, where after that elected as President of the Semarang branch in the 1930s and served as the Provincial Council of Central Java.

participants of Chung Hwa Hui Congress came together for dinner
at Hotel Du Pavillion (now Hotel Dibya Puri), 1927.
(source: Chinese Indonesian Heritage Center) 

Beside His political carrier, Thio Thiam Tjong  also concerned with social and educational affairs of the Chinese community. In 1928, He became the chairman of the Chinese-English School (Now used as SMA Negeri 5 Semarang). Following the Japanese occupation of Manchuria, He inisiated the Jiogou Houyuan Hui (Save the country from the back line) movement and later the China Charity Fund (Semarang Branch) in order to support the resistance against Japanese in Manchuria. It was reported that for every donation drive His Thio Siong Liong Maatschappij was alway the largest donor. Before the Japanese invasion of Java, the Colonial Government organized a local defence force in which He was appointed as the Chief Commander. Thus, following the fall of Java into Japanese force, Thio was detained in Interneringskamp (eng: consentration camp) from 1942 until 1945.

The Chinese English School "Hwa Ing" in Bodjong Straat (now Jalan-
Pemuda) Semarang. Thio became the Chairman of this school on 1928.
Now its used as the SMA Negeri 5 Semarang. (source: semarang.nl)

When the Revolution for Independence broke up. Thio was invited by Governor-General Van Mook to became His personal adviser, considering Thio's popularity among the Indonesian chinese. In 1948, Thio established Persatuan Tionghoa (PT) with the aim of organizing Indonesian Chinese readiness for the changing situation. Nevertheless, the complete withdrawal of the Dutch forces and the coming power of indigenous Indonesians diminished Thio's influence. His past record as van Mook's adviser made Him labeld as anti-nationalist movement. Thio's PDTI (the new name of the PT after 1950) was declining and replaced by Baperki. Thio later concerned in His busines and education activity. In 1957, he together with another Chinese-Indonesian, formed a committee to established the Tarumanegara University. Thio Died in Netherlands on December 22nd 1969.

His House in Semarang once used as Singapore International School (SIS) before its moved to another place in Semarang. Now its remained empty, and wished this antique indisch house, still preserved for a long time. 

The Baronese Van Hoevel, Emancipation Activist from Semarang

The Committee of Koloniale Tetoonstelling 1914 in Semarang, taken from the Gedenkbook of Koloniale Tetoonstelling.
Mevr. E Byleveld Baronese van Hoevel, was the only women in the committee, standing in the back, dead center.

My mobile Phone rang on that silent noon,  strangers talks in English and I felt very upset. She explain that She just arrived in Semarang and got my phone number from my Blog. Her name was Ellen van Os, coming from Netherlands to seek an information about Her great-grandma and also Her relatives that buried here, in Semarang. Her Great-Grandma was a victims during Japanese occupation, died in Interneringskamp (eng: internment camp) somewhere in Semarang. Then we set a meeting on Ereveld Kalibanteng, where most of the victims during the Japanese occupation as well during Indonesia Revolution buried.

The grave of Mevr. E.H. Bijleveld
Baronese van Hoevel in Ereveld
Kalibanteng, Semarang.

This was my first time coming to Ereveld, or literally it means “field of honour”. A cemeteries managed by Oorlogsgraven Stichting (OGS) to give a respect for those victims during the Japanese occupation and also during the Indonesia Revolution period. Its not easy to visiting here as the Indonesian, because of its already belongs to the land of Netherlands. Yap, besides their Embassy and Consulates, this Ereveld that also existed in Jakarta, Bandung and Surabaya, its belongs to the Kingdom of Netherlands extra teritories. Thus, there I found the portrait of Prins Willem-Alexander and Queen Maxima, not my President, Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, LoL!

I met Ellen and also Olivier, they come here in Semarang for the first time, after got holidays in Bali several days. We explore through the gravestone lines in Ereveld to found the Ellen Great-Grandma tombs. Then She show us where is it, then She start to explain how is Her Great-Grandma is, something that I couldnt believed! Her Great-Grandma was one’s of the committee of Koloniale Tetoonstelling 1914 in Semarang, the only women in the committee! Wow, what an odd! Because of I have Her Great-Grandma photos in my files about this Koloniale Tetoonsttelling.

An open class in the De Vrouw pavilions. The picture depicting
 Van Hoevel giving Her lectures.

Her name was E. H. Baronese van Hoevel, a word “Baronese” showed that She comes from the noble families. Ellen told me, if van Hoevel have a good relation with Austro-Hungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, and once He visiting va Hoevel residences somewhere in Sulawesi. Van Hoevel have a lots of collection of shell, and its displayed on a several cupboard. This were really impressed Franz Ferdinand, thus He wanna bought it, and Franz Ferdinand owned one of that cupboard filled with Van Hoevel collection of Shell. Nowadays, that cupboard being displayed in Museum and one another is on the Ellens house.  Couple months later after Franz Ferdinand visiting Van Hoevel in Sulawesi, He died in Sarajevo, killed by a Serbian extrimist, and the World War I begun.

Van Hoevel was also belongs to the Women Emancipation movement. She initiated the Pavilions for women named De Vrouw during the Koloniale Tetoonstelling, displayed the several activities belongs to woman emancipation. But during the Japanese occupation, everythings got changed. Van Hoevel sent into Internment camp, just like another Eurasians on that time. Also together with Her grand-daughter. She Died there, likely caused of the bad condition in the Camp, but another sad stories coming from Her grand-daughter. When we examines Her tomb, several tomb have a same date of death, then Ellen told me, “Could be, She has been executed”. For what? Both of us dont know but once again, there’s something that u couldnt immagines happend during the war.

“Hun Geest Heeft Overwonen”

Their Spirit Have Overcome

We’ll always remembered them

Renew Old Memories in Purworejo (part 1)

Sop Senerek, the Javanese version of Dutch cuisines, the Bruine Bonen Soep. Typically Kedu Residents cuisines who consist of Temanggung, Magelang, Purworejo, Kebumen and surround it.

Hello World!

This week were getting so awesome for me! Yap, just because of its really-really full of adventures. Since my friends Wisnu Pratama got his Kuliah Kerja Nyata (kinda form of community service activities by students in the rural areas) or simply called as KKN  that located in Salaman, Magelang and its near my birthplace city, Purworejo, so I quickly made an appointment with Him in order to accompany me visiting this city. I really excited to go there now, due to I must have "me-time" over there, not like my previous experience. Have my own vehicles, have my own destination to renew my Old memories that already left there for 19 years, so here we go!

“Deze weg is daargesteld onder het bestuur
der Residen van Bagelen Ionkh JGOS Don Schmidt
Auf Altenstadt En R De Filletaz Bousqet En
onder mederwerking van Raden Adipati Tjokronegoro
Regent van Purworejo In de jaren 1845-1850”.

Start at 10.30 am, the bus arrived at Magelang and Wisnu picked me up, then we got our breakfast with the famous Magelang culinary, Sop Senerek Karesidenan, the stall is near the former office of Karesidenan (eng: Resident) Kedu. Its named after senerek, the red beans. Serving in the forms of soup, containing meat/offal, potato, carrot, spinach and of course, rice. This is the example of the acculturations between the local culture and the europeans. Its looks like typical Dutch cuisine, bruine bonen soep, a soup who also named after the bruine bonen, the brown beans. Hmm...yummy, start from this breakfast, its already renew my old memories, because of this Sop Senerek were typically a cuisine in the Kedu region, who consist of Magelang and another cities in the south of this city, also Purworejo.

On 11.00 am, our bikes already down to the Magelang-Purworejo main highway. I love every part of it, because of its offering the enormous scenery, a combination of valley, mountainous and rural area. Then we stoped in Tugu Bener, a monument to commemorate the construction of the highway between Magelang and Purworejo which took a place between 1845-1850. This monument condition seems like never been restored nor preserved. I guess, not so many people knows about the story behind this monument. Taking several photos and the journey continued. After 45 minutes of riding, we arrived in the city of Purworejo.

"Indlansche en Afrikaansche Troepen"
a picture depicting the native (left) and
African (right) mercenaries om KNIL
(source: wikipedia.org)

Not so many changes happend in this city. Even in my memories, several building and several places, just like in their condition during my childhood. This small cities, is rich with the history, just like my stories before here, at least i could mention two of the things that people here must be proud of their city, there's the biggest Aloon-aloon and Bedug in central java is located. here 

Here in Purworejo, once there's a kampoong that populated by african descendants, mainly from Elmina, Ghana that recruited as mercenaries for the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army or simply known as KNIL. This people so-called Zwarte Hollanders, the Black Dutchmen, the Javanese recognize them as Londo Ireng literally also means Black Dutchmen. Between 1831 and 1872, over three thousand Africans were recruited, this recruitment was in fact an emergency measure, as the Dutch army lost thousands of European soldiers and a much larger number of "native" soldiers in the Java War against Pangeran Diponegoro between 1825-1830. Following the independence of Indonesia, many of this african descendants flew back to Netherlands or to Africa, few of them choose to stay in Indonesia, one of their settlements were in Purworejo. 

The street inside the Kampoong even named as Gang African (eng: African Alley) to commemorate this. Located near RSUD Purworejo (city central hospital), here still a lot of houses typically 30-40's tropica architectures could be founded. But now, you couldnt find any Zwarte Hollanders anymore here. I found one's of the residents and said the last remains of this was already passed away in 2008. She only have one child, still looks alike an afro's people, but unfortunatelly, he's suffering for mental disorder even frequently He stay until fall asleep in Kerkhof (Dutch Graveyard) Purworejo, for unknown reason. We try to find Him in Kerkhof but found nothing. 

An old Gardu Listrik/ Tranformator Huis in front of
Gang African. inzet: the noticemen in Three Languages. 

Uniquely, near the Gang African, We met the Tranformator Huis (eng: Transformator House) or here in we call it as Gardu Listrik, that still in complete condition. Here in Purworejo, we could find a noticemen in three languages, Dutch, Indonesian and Javanese to prevent the people from the electricity danger. This noticemen made of Tin and you couldnt find any of these in Semarang, because it must be already taken by the collectors. I wish this noticemen will always there, please God save them from both the collectors and vandalist ;) 

(To be Continued)

De Escompto Bank in Semarang

De Escompto Bank office in Hoogendorpstraat or now known as Jalan Kepodang, Semarang, simply recognized by its dome-shaped tower. The year when photos taken between 1925-1930. (source: Leiden University Library)

Nederlandsch-Indische-Escompto-Maatschappij or simply known as NIEM or just Escompto Bank, is the second largest Bank operated in Dutch Indies during the colonial period. Escompto Bank formed in 1857 and continues to operated until 1958, while all of the Dutch companies were nationalized by the government of Republik Indonesia. Then it changes into Bank Dagang Negara (BDN), and following the 1997 economic crisis, this BDN merged with another 3 govenments bank formed Bank Mandiri until nowadays.

A mozaic formed by decorated tiles illustrated the city coat
of arms of Semarang and Surabaya.

In Semarang, in Kota Lama section, the office of Escompto Bank were very luxurious with the tower as its icon. Located in Hoogendorpstraat or now known as Jalan Kepodang, the Escompto Bank building with its tower always appeared rights in the form of photos or postcards. There’s an unique characteristic over the Escompto Bank officebuilding. In its wall, always there’s several city coat of arms illustrated by a mozaic formed by decorated tiles. In Batavia (Jakarta) we’d see the coat of arms of Amsterdam, Semarang, Bandung, Surabaya and Batavia. In Semarang, only 2 city coat of arms are illustrated in its wall, its Surabaya and Semarang. The Escompto Bank building in Semarang, situated in the street that once crowd with the business activity because of along the street in front of it, situated the Head office of Oei Tiong Ham Concern, The Geo Wehry Co., Butterworth Co., and so on.

De Escompto Bank, current condition. The Dome were
dissapeared, but dont know when and why did its happend.

The tower with its dome that so famous as the landmarks along the Hoogendorpstraat were no longer existed. Dont know exactly when its been torned down, but now its changed into a simply roof. This art deco style building seems faced many renovation that changes the appearance of the building that built in 1912. Talking about the Escompto Bank, there’s an interested story about it in the Escompto Bank of Surabaya I got from National Geographic.

A legitimate banknote from the 1941, has been left for until today. The banknotes belongs to NV Carl Schlieper , an importeur for the guild tools from the Remscheid, Germany to the several cities in Dutch Indies. The banknote stated the amount of 400 Yen and that amount must be available on monday,February 17th 1941. The Bank have legitimate it thus the cashier could took the cash for the owner of that banknote. But then, the representatives from NV. Carl Schlieper never return to that place to take out the cash. Even after the Escompto Bank changed into Bank Dagang Negara, the cash still neatly stored in the bank safes. Now, this 400 Yen bills were displayed as the collection of Museum Bank Mandiri Surabaya.

Nowadays this building seems to still belongs to state-owned company property. With a lot of projects to developed the Kota Lama section, we waits, when it will become a Museum Bank Mandiri Semarang? We’ll be waiting for (again) 

There’s Nothing More Fun than Being at The Top (Part 2)

The paintings made by Hal Wichers on 1937 depicting the landscape, face Merbaboe mountain. The beauty of this 5th highest peak in the whole Java Isle has been famous for a long time ago. (source: geheugen van nederland)

Just like the titled so this was my 2nd summit that I've conquered ;) Its began when Mas Dimas wishes once He ought to succesfully climbed the mountain, and not so long after that I've seen a posters on my campus explained about Pendakian Massal (eng: mass climbing) upon the Merbabu mountain, the 5th highest peak in the whole Java Isle, organize by FEPALA, a student mountaneering club of Economic Faculty of UNDIP. Inviting another, then I got a company, consist of Kuni, my organization pals and Aji, my college pals.

Me and my team posed in the village of Wekas,
 the last village in the climbing lane to the peak of Merbabu.

On the morning of November 2nd, 2013, me and Aji walks from His dorm after got a breakfast to the assembly point before we picked up by trucks (sounds riddiculous eh? But its common here ;)) and met Mas Dimas and Kuni as well. Over there I met with Kuni's friends Deny, also my juniors Mamos and Rilo, the boy who before it once we met up on the campus bazaar events while we together participated.

The trucks starts to roll, and the journey to the Merbabu just began. Pretty hot during the trip, ya now I know the suffering of the soldiers during the war. The committee said its almost 47 participant and together with the committee, the total of this "challenger" would be 70. Some of the committee had already in the Merbabu ground camp, to prepared the accomodation to the participant. Around 12:15, We arrived at Wekas, the last village on the climbing lane to Merbabu. Got our lunch and also got a break before the climbing starts.

Right on 3.00 pm, the journey to conquered the Merbabu peak begin. Related to my unwell condition, because of couple days before it I was suffering for cold, and a night before it I even cant sleep properly. Thus, felt exhausted quicker than normally, made me always walks far behind the groups. Damn, but its true, its still the begining, the journey still far away, Mas Dimas and Aji always give the motivation, to always move and not to got rest frequently. Theoretically, a lot of rest, there will be more exhausted you'll felt, but ya, I just cant stand anymore at that time. 

through the storms, the visibility
not more than 5 meters

After three hours of walking, then I arrived in the 2nd post of Merbabu Climbing lane that used as camping ground. I'am the last man who arrived, and the sky already dark. A bread and a cornets curing my hunger, and a bottle of fresh water made me felt "alive" anymore. Me together with Aji, Mas Dimas, Rilo, Mamos and Dani become a one group and after choosing the tent, we prepared our equipment to cook but later we decided to sleep firstly and cook later, considering the queue from another group to used the stove. Our tent, its said normally enough to used by five person, but when we used it, only four of us, could occupied it. Then, Mas Dimas choosed to sleep outside the tent using  His sleeping bag. But then in the middle of the night, the storms struck the camp, and I saw the lightning blazing and affraid of the rain would falls down, I ordered Mas Dimas to moved inside and made us more likely a salmon inside the sardinnes can.  

Pretty cold on that nite, because its so windy, and we forgot our dinner. a bad start, because at 02.00 am we woke up and prepared to climb the peak of the mountain, in hungry condition! Only couple of bread we ate and we begin to climb to the top. The lane were so hard because of dominated by rocks, still I was the last man in the group. All of us want to catch the sunrise in the top, but for me it doesnt important at all related to my bad condition. There I realize why this mountain loss of many lives, because of the tracks were so dangerous and challenging. Near the peak there's a lane called Jembatan Setan (eng: the devils bridge). A rocky mountain that need an extra consentration to passed it.

Taking picture together in midst of storm at the
peak of Merbabu mountain .

Arrived at the peak of the Merbabu mountain in the height of 3412 mdpl on the 6:30 am I just could said "Alhamdulillah". I give a several toast to Mas Dimas, because finally we made it, conquered the peak of Merbabu and for Him, this was His first mountain to be climbed. Here in the top we wanna celebrated it with got our breakfast because of we havent got our dinner yet. But poor us, the gas can leaked thus set the stove into fire. Our chance to got our breakfast gone away, but its not only stop on it. Unluckily the storm struck again and made our way back not easy, and Kuni's wounded in the middle of the way back until its need to be evacuated by the stretcher. 

All of that is only the way to proof how strong are you. Later all of that could be handled of. Just like the wise man said "the show must goes on". In the hunger condition finally we could reach the camp and ate our "most delicious noodles" on our lives, and Kuni successfully evacuated. And at 3:00 pm, time's to go back to the village before transported back to Semarang, we had to move slowly becouse of Kuni condition, also the rain falls down made the way slippers, even severals time I got slipped and fallen. But we made it, we reached Wekas on 7:15 pm, because of the spirits and faith amongs the team. At last, inside the truck on the way back, I just realized not to be afraid facing the problems, there's people around who always support us, and thats what a solidarity stands for. Still, there's nothing more fun than being at the top! :)

The Real Mailbox

The photos from Leiden University Library depicted the women used the mailbox in the Bergota street. In the right is this "Brievenbus" which now is displayed as memorial in the front of Kantor Pos Besar building, Semarang.

Today, the interaction between people were very dynamics. For me, when I started my activity in the morning, I will worried if my cellphones were in low power condition/ inactive , rather than got my breakfast. Its getting common while people wake up in the morning, then firstly checked their gadget, as same as they gonna go to bed in the night. Yap getting "keep in touch" with others is one's of the common sense due to its real that human created as a social creatures. Long time ago, an effort to made this kind of communication activity were created. The correspondence through the mail was the famous way for long distance communication for a long way. 

One's of my Mom's collection, a
 postage stamp issued on 1962 by
PT POS Indonesia, commemorated
the 4th Asian Games in Jakarta.

According to the official sites of PT. POS Indonesia, as the official institutions about this business, the history of the postal services begin in Batavia. Inisiated by the General-Governoor G.W Baron van Imhoff on August, 26th 1746 with the purposes to securing the mail flows for the cilvilian and military as well. The services not only handled the services in East Indies region but also to the Netherlands. After its established in Batavia, four year laters, its established in Semarang thorugh the cities of Karawang, Cirebon and Pekalongan

This correspondence activity were survive for a long times after that. Even when the telegraph and telephone invented, its still the main ways for long-distance communication. This activity generated the philately hobbies which once so popular. Among the philatelist collecting the postage stamp from the various place in the world is the purposes, thus the correspondence activities not boring. My Mom, are also a philatelist during Her youth.

Talking about the postal history in Semarang city cant be separated from this Kantor Pos Besar, the head office of postal services in this city, located near the Kota Lama. Built in the 19th centuries, this former Post en Telegraf Dienst Kantoor still used as serving the people. There's a zero milestone in front of this building. There's a unique fact that most of the postal head office always existed near the zero milestones. Here in Semarang then Bandoeng, Pekalongan, Cirebon, etc all of them were near the postal head office in those cities. Maybe this was related to the position of those building which in the roadside of "De Groote Post Weg"(eng: the postal grand road). The Groote Post Weg, inisiated under the general-governor of Herman Willem Daendels, a dutch who become French colaborator during the Napoleonic war (1803-1815). The Daendels inisiated to conected the major cities in the north coast of Java in order to made the movement of the army easier to defend the Java  from the British. But also, its purposed to made the flow of the postal services quicker than before then it make a sense while most of them were located close to the zero milestones.

So, when is the last time you sent the mail through this real mailboxes? :)

Van Dorp, The Famous Bookstores

Van Dorp Bookstores and publishers during the colonial era and the current condition on 2013. The inzet depicted the GCT Van Dorp & Co. logo. (source: Masyarakat Indonesia Sadar Sejarah (Mesias) and studiegroep-zwp.nl )

A bookstores is having an important role the societies. Because of books are the window to the World. Its made us able to travel anywhere in this world and beyond in the covers of a book. There is no limit to what we can experience while reading. It's an entertainment we can take with you anywhere, any time. Through readings the books, people will gain more knowledge deeply than others, even in this modern era's when the electronic gadget developed so fast, still on the educational sectors teacher as well as lecturer prefer to ask their students to read the books. Books writed by writers, edited by editors then printed and published by publisher until its "served" on the bookstores.

The ads about the watercolor boxes that
sold in Van Dorp Bookstores.
(sources: koleksikertasdjadoel)

Lately, I found a fact that once in Semarang, its existed the famous bookstores called Van Dorp. The complete names is that G.C.T van Dorp & Co. or simply called as Van Dorp, located in Kota Lama in front of the old Javasche Bank building. Van Dorp beside its sells the book, its also having role as publisher. Felt difficulties to found the records about this bookstores that based in Batavia (now: Jakarta) and has branches in Bandung, Semarang and Surabaya with the distribution all over East-Indies. But Asrul Sani on Arief Budiman's book entitled "Chairil Anwar: Sebuah Pertemuan" recount about His story and Chairil Anwar about its Van Dorp Bookstores. “In Jalan Juanda (Jakarta) once there's two bookstores that now becomes the office of Astra Company. They were Kolf and Van Dorp. The collection was extremely much. Me and Chairil often to stolen the books over there,” Asrul Sani recounts on the books. 

The fate of Van Dorp bookstores later nationalized by the government after the repatriations of the Dutch people following the tensions between Indonesia and Netherlands in West Papua conflicts. The glory of this bookstores found its ends. The new owners seems unable to managed the bookstores until its getting declined and the building taken by Sarinah International, and here in Semarang taken by Ikatan Arsitek Indonesia (IAI) but now were no longer used and abandoned. PK Ojong, the founder of Kompas Daily, one's of the leading newspaper in Indonesia wrote about this. For Him, the lost of Van Dorp Bookstores is one's of the evidences behind the failure of nationalization policy.

GCT Van Dorp building before its change into the art deco style on 1913.
(source: Leiden University Library)

"The soul of a company is not placed on the building, the furniture, the car, the truck, and the archive, but on the leader. What we actually do with this Van Dorp bookstores? The expertise, efficiency, we kick it out abroad. And that we have is only the building, the furniture, the car, and so on. We kick it soul, and the only things we owned just a dead objects", said PK Ojong.     

When the nationalization carried out in an emotional atmosphere, based on hate, based on revenge without a good and professional management, its means nothings. Just like the fate of Van Dorp Bookstores. abandoned, decayed, and no one's recognized it anymore.

sources: http://alwishahab.wordpress.com/2009/09/02/van-dorp-dinasionalisasi/

A Peace Movement to Persuade the Government Established City Museum

Inside the Pameran Kuno Kini Nanti, taken before the opening ceremony by Mas Asmarie from DotSemarang, danke broer! :) 

Its September already!

But the memories of August were couldn’t went away yet, still on my mind the crowds, the smiles and the curiousity of the guest on Lopen Semarang history exhibition. Yap, like what I said before in my blog post here, finally we did it! Held the great exhibition about history in my city, even a lots of people said that this was the first time such this kinda exhibition  runs by the youth and without any government intervention! Its pure for the people, by the people, from us, LoL

The front facade of the Spiegel Building,
the location of Kuno Kini Nanti exhibition.
(source: Harry Suryo)

The Pameran (eng: exhibition) titled “Kuno Kini Nanti”.  Taken from Indonesian word which kuno means the past, kini means recent and nanti means later. So as the history study is, we learns from the past, we observe it in our current condition to prepared our future to be better than before. From this exhibition we want to brought back the visitor back into Semarang on the early of 20th century. The period in which the worlds is being transformed from “Kuno-Kini”,  from the traditional life into modern life like what our life is. Because in 20th century, there’s a lot of invention on Economics system, Industrial works, Education system, Ideology, and the important one, the new technologies. Come skelian lord and lady, together we learn cultural heritage which is owned by the city of Semarang!

The exhibition runs for a a weeks, starts from August 22nd to 28th, 2013, from  10 AM to 9 PM in Spiegel building, Semarang Old quarter. Here in the exhibition, together we collaborated with several communities like AIESEC UNDIP, Jazzngisoringin, Orart oret, FDGI, Akademi Berbagi and our brother who together put a concern on historical thingy, Blusukan Solo. The collaboration with its several community have a a lot of purposes, starts from our hopes that the community could collaborated together, act together to build the Semarang city more attractives. Like in this exhiobition, the historical exhibition is just the name, but inside it, we let those community fulfilled it with their own way. In the other hands Lopen Semarang were still young, not so many people know about this community, so we hope through this collaboration, it would gained much visitor over the exhibition.

The members of Lopen Semarang, explained about the content of the
exhibition into this "little visitors".

Then its really happened! We recorded 1467 visitors in Kuno Kini Nanti, from the students from the elementary school to the retirements of civil servants, from the college to the entrepreneur, from the family to the old friends, everybody learns here. Even after we closed we expected to extended our exhibition as a part of Hidden Heritage events on August 6th-7th, 2013. 

Thanks for all the people who helped us to realize it! And the last but not least, we have a strong wish. Someday it must be a City Museum of Semarang, located in Kota Lama, because until this time there’s no City Museum existed in this city. We, the youth, have proved it, that the history of Semarang city is great and its worth to be learn of, the now its ur turn, the Government of Semarang City, for how long we’ve to wait y’all realize the city museum? We’ll waitin’ for ;)

The Remains of Hotel Tjandi and A Story of Divorce Drama

Hotel Tjandi, the current condition are photos in the left side taken on April 2013 and on the right side were the condition on the same sites, the zweembad (eng:swimming pool) on 1927, with the luggage label of Hotel Tjandi.
(source: Leiden University Library | e-bay)

Hello World!

This afternoon in the middle of my daily activity, I've visited the remains of Hotel Tjandi, one's of the best hotel in Semarang during colonial period. Visiting the remains of the glorious Hotel Tjandi actualy kind of weird since there's nothings left, only its fences and its decayed-swimming pools remains. The funny fact that the ruins of the swimming pool that once made this hotel famous, now used as the volley ball fields. The Tjandi Hotel according to the advertisement in De Locomotief, a  popular newspaper based on Semarang opened in September 25th 1888. The Hotel claimed has sophisticated view of the city of Semarang and Java Sea. The hotel initialy contains 16 spacious rooms that also has a telephone connection, water pipeline facility (which at that time consider as very luxury) and also provided with restaurant that served fresh milk. The Tjandi Hotel which located in 300 feet above sea level was only eight minutes away from Djomblang tram station, made it always easily accessible. The hotel even has its own car rental, located in the opposite of Djomblang tram station, where there are also available buses to the city or to southern part of the city to be reached. 

There's not so many articles regarding this Hotel Tjandi, mostly the articles was about the murder that happens in this hotel that also reported by De Locomotief . I've translatted and edited the content of the events that exacted 84 years ago happened as follows, so sorry before if its not appropriated translated. (See the original one's here)

Hotel Tjandi on 1910 (Source: Leiden University Library)

OCHTENDBLAD, A (eng: Morning Paper).  25 Aug. 1929

De moord in het Tjandi-hotel te Semarang 

(eng: The murder in the Tjandi hotel in Semarang)

Echtscheidingsdrama.

(eng: Divorce Drama)

Just as telegraphic reported, its happened in the pleasant Hotel Tjandi in Semarang on Monday 22 July at 12.15 PM a drama play. With four shots , three of which exceeded target, has certain A. N. van den Worm Mr. W. van Zuylen , a member of the orphan room there, deprived of life. The perpetrator writes for The Locomotive daily he choose on silent midday , while Mr Van Zuylen with his wife received Mr. Oei visits then together have a afternoon tea drinking. Suddenly appeared in the middle of the three unsuspecting men the aforementioned with a revolver in hand, caused the fatality for Mr. Van Zuylen. Shortly after committing the crime, the perpetrator were explained the shots as the following :

Mr. J. Blom, superintendant of the hotel, in the hall of the hotel waiting for the afternoon . He suddenly heard a bang. Soon afterwards he heard screaming from the Northwest Appear corner of the hotel , from the direction of the rooms occupied by Mr. Van Zuylen and his expectant wife , Mrs . Keyer . Mr Blom rushed there and saw Van den Worm standing with revolver in hand, while Mr. Van Zuylen lay on the ground in a pool of blood . At a distance Mr. Blom, with a little bit frightened , look assigns Van den Worm and cried far, "Give me that thing! ". Van den Worm replied "Here it is , and here you have some spare cartridges as well. I shot him . Call the police after all" .

Mr Blom then went to the phone with Van den Worm to warn the police, still felt shocked and amazed because of how come the perpetrator commited a crime then call the police for what he done? Van den Worm was now quiet in the hall of the hotel and said among other things, "Look yet again that this man were supposed to be dead! Otherwise he goes there next time anyway". A moment later it was called : "I have over ten years . I have already said that he was coming. That was a honor , like Van Rijn .

So hows the crime has taken place, please read as followings,

On that day the inhabitants of the rooms on the northern wing of the hotel  along with heavy looping fit. A lady , who stood at the window of her room , glanced , who surely the man was who found it necessary at this hour of afternoon rest with so heavy steps on the hotel gallery to march. She saw a man who had his right hand in his pocket  pass . Sometime later there were shots 

For the room of Mr. Van Zuylen were Mr van Zuylen near the door with the face and on his right sat Mrs.  Keyer and left, with his back were Mr. Oei . To the provisional statements show ,Van den Worm with rushing mighty pass to the corner came behind and walked to Mr. Oei 's called something like, " Where are my children?" . Immediately afterwards or perhaps simultaneously pulled a revolver and four shots fired . In two or three seconds, that was the drama happened.

The current condition of the front fences of Hotel Tjandi,
the buildings were already demolished on 1997. 

The reason for this heinous crime should be sought in a love affair .The perpetrator, Van den Worm , a man of 51 years , was formerly married to Mrs . Keyer , with whom he has three children. This marriage, which was very unfortunate, was disbanded last year. It was during this marriage and be the occasion of a violent scene in the house of the family Van den Worm, then the story goes when Mr. Van Zuylen met Mrs. Keyer . He lived in a pavilion at the home of Van den Worm. Mrs Keyer anyway, threatened Mr. Van Zuylen in such a manner that later made Mr.Van den Worm dislike it. Then Mrs . Keyer is fled to the pavilion where Mr Van Zuylen lived . Start form that time, the separation process started.

The victim of this crime , Mr. W. van Zuylen, was a quiet , calm and modest man. A hard worker , who diligence in the course of years of committees in the orphan room service. He lived a quiet life and would soon be married with mrs . Keyer , the former wife of Mr. Van den Worm, with whom he had lived for long time and even the peoples already applied Her as Mrs. Van Zuylen. Mr. Van den Worm apparently very strongly affected by these separation. So it seems that he had to "avenge" not to have to lose. 

A member of policemen did the research about the case, led by Mr. Wird Barendregt , commenced the perpetrator, seens from how he came and how he performedsimiliar with the Van Rijn case, another murder case in Madiun , which Mr Van den Rijn shoted notary Heyman Cohen till dead , apparently has been inspired the Van den Worm. Currently, Mrs. Keyer still suffered by the murders on that noons and it is transferred to St. Elizabeth Hospital on the evening. It will certainly take a considerable time to recover.